LSA Reviews: The Baker and The Bottleman goes from bakery to full dinner service

The Baker and The Bottleman (TBTB) by British chef-restaurateur Simon Rogan is his third outpost in Hong Kong, after Roganic and Aulis. Originally a bakery by day and a wine bar by night, TBTB is now introducing a complete albeit modest menu for dinner service.

A Review of The Baker and The Bottleman 

Those who recognise the name Simon Rogan would know that the British chef has successfully transplant his sustainability practices from three-star Michelin L’enclume to his Hong Kong restaurants Roganic and Aulis by sourcing locally and sometimes also growing their own vegetables and herbs.

So successful, in fact, that the one-star Michelin Roganic became the first recipient of the guide’s inaugural Green Star award in 2021. TBTB, on Lee Tung Avenue ,was opened in January 2022 with a bakery on the ground floor, with the wine bar specialising in natural and bio-dynamic wines on the first floor opening later.

In mid-June, the wine bar – or The Bottleman part of the name – expanded its previous snacks menu to include a full dinner service, under the head chef Chef Oli Eisendhardt. Like its sister restaurants, the new menu at TBTB comes as close as farm-to-table as it can practically get with fish sourced from Aberdeen and fresh vegetables from the New Territories.

The menu isn’t huge, with a total of three snacks, five small plates, five big plates and three dessert options and servings come in sharing portions and at prices that won’t break the bank. Those who loved the fish burger at TBTB before need not worry – they’ve kept it on the menu!

On a recent tasting trip there, we were lucky enough to pretty much taste everything on the menu. You wouldn’t be at TBTB without having their freshly baked bread basket ($30) or miss the infamous truffle pudding ($30 a piece) from Roganic.

The raw Hokkaido scallop with citrus ($140) was a light and refreshing kick-off the evening. There are two vegetarian choices for small plates: the farmhouse productions leeks ($120) and the Jerusalem artichokes ($130). Both were quite layered, especially the artichokes with the roasted shallots adding a pleasant crunch to each mouthful.

There was a lot going on with grilled cuttlefish with roasted chilli, fennel and asparagus ($150) which unfortunately eclipsed the taste of the cuttlefish itself. The beef tartare ($180) served interestingly hash browns was an absolute creamy delight.

The Spanish mackerel crudo ($180) was a personal favourite with a calamansi ponzu that I loved. However I wasn’t sure if this should have been a small plate, or starter,  as I didn’t fancy going back to a cold dish again for the big plates.

The dry-aged local duck ($210) featured half a local Hong Kong duck breast and a confit duck leg ragout, served with roasted parsnips, parsnip puree, watercress and duck jus. The duck was a perfect medium rare and the jus went very well with it.

The most expensive on the menu was the Iberico Pork Chop ($360) which came in a generous portion atop a bed of braised cabbage. The rich pork jus brought out the full flavours in the meat. The fish burger ($130) needed no introduction, but I was a bit disappointed in the grilled choi sum ($110) with poached egg. Visually and taste-wise, it felt rather unnecessary.

Despite not being a dessert person, I loved the peaches and cream ($100), the house signature, served with a raspberry base and crunchy almond crumble on top. You have to scoop through all the layers to get all the full flavours. The apple tart tartin with vanilla soft serve ($100) also hit the mark.

If you are too lazy to even choose from the already simple menu, you can also opt for the set menu ($380) which will get you bread, and the chef’s choice of a small plate, a big plate and one dessert. TBTB offers a great deal whichever way you want to go.

Cuisine

European

We Recommend

Small plate

Raw Hokkaido scallop ($140)

Beef tartare ($180)

Big plate

Fish burger ($130)

Iberico pork chop ($360)

Dessert

Peaches and cream ($100)

The Vibe

TBTB is a great casual neighbourhood hang-out along the picturesque Lee Tung Avenue. The upstairs portion of the restaurant is a cosy space with different choices of seatings: banquette seatings, high stools, and low-table seats – almost something suitable for any-sized group, just pick your preferred corner. Rogan is known for his bio-dynamic wines and TBTB has quite a good collection of these on offer. It can be an acquired taste for many people but don’t fret, a sommelier will be on hand to help.

Quick Notes

Price for two: 

$1,000 excluding drinks

Address:

Shop G14/G15 Lee Tung Avenue

200, Queen’s Road East

Wan Chai

Whatsapp 2386 8933

Opening Hours: 

Tuesdays – Saturdays: 6pm – 11pm