LSA Reviews: The Steak House brings back old school charm to Regent Hong Kong

The return of Regent Hong Kong has been much welcomed in Hong Kong and although the hotel has been refurbished, there are still many things that will be familiar to its fans: such as the grand lobby and the famous restaurants such as The Steak House and Lai Ching Heen.

A Review of The Steak House

A lot seems to have remained unchanged from the days when the Regent Hong Kong became InterContinental Hong Kong in 2001 to its reversion back to being the Regent this year. The premises are newer, of course, thanks to a two-year refurbishment but it retains much of the old charm from is heydays as both the Regent and the InterContinental.

The Steak House, their resident chic haven for meat lovers, is one that has stood the test of time and has survived the hotel’s several incarnations. While the interiors have been upgraded, the quality of the meats and wine selection.

Moroccan head chef Armine Errkhis – formerly head chef at Bistecca and the American Club – presides over its kitchen where the steakhouse’s famous charcoal grills are still flaming steaks in the open kitchen, tucked in a cosy corner where the salad bar and dry-ageing fridge is,

It’s a generous salad bar ($498, or $298 with an a la carte order), laden with lots of fresh vegetables, salads as well as cured meats, and one that we’d happily opt for as a full meal when we’re looking for something light. There’s even a Perseus caviar corner (from $888 to $1,580 for 30g) for those who might be feeling a little festive.

We eased into our meal with the tomato gazpacho and lobster tail ($268), perfect for hot summer days. The gazpacho was light and fresh and had just enough of piquillo pepper to give it a little zing. The grilled sea king crab leg ($450) with mango, lemon gel and pickled celery also offered enough citrussy flavours to pique the appetite.

Things went into second gear with the heavier starters such as the toro and uni custard ($728) which came with a spoon of Oscietra caviar; the beef tenderloin tartare ($280 for 4oz); and the duck foie gras terrine ($298).

The toro was very fresh and worked well with the uni base while the caviar presented added umami to the dish. The quality of the tenderloin lifted the tartare from averageness, I’m not a fan of foie gras terrine as a starter as a huge slab of terrine is often too rich for my taste. The starters probably work better as shared plates, rather than on their own.

Naturally, the heroes of the meal were the steaks which are sourced from around the world. Our choices for the night were the Carima Farm Rare T-bone ($78 per oz), the Hanwoo sirloin ($1,380 for 12oz) from Korea, and the Australian Mayura M9+ Tomahawk ($108 per oz).

The chefs have taken meticulous care with the choice of condiments and sauces for these with red wine sauce for the Carima, yuzu kosho sauce for the Hanwoo and homemade mustard for the tomahawk.

Carima comes from great pedigree, being the first Italian beef to have grading based on the typology of the cattle, conformation and marble scores, which ensures quality and consistency. It was juicy if a little chewy.

My choice for the night was the Hanwoo; there’s little doubt that Hanwoo beef has become a serious contender for steaks and it’s easy to tell why. The beef has perfect marbling, making it extremely juicy while not being to oily and rich.

There was hardly any room left for dessert after that but we bravely pushed on with the upside down apple tarte tartin ($450) and the ridiculously delicious 70% smoky chocolaterie de l’opéra (HK$450). We literally rolled down the driveway to get home after that.

The refurbishment has certainly upped the ante for the steakhouse in terms of quality – and if we’re being honest, also in terms of prices – but you can be sure of getting excellent quality for your buck.

Cuisine

Steakhouse

We Recommend

The salad bar ($498)

Tomato gazpacho and lobster tail ($268)

Hanwoo sirloin ($1,380 for 12oz)

70% smoky chocolaterie de l’opéra (HK$450)

The Vibe

The new décor by Melbourne-based BAR Studio has raised the opulence bar on The Steak House, with rich burgundy and brown hues. You feel like a million dollars just walking through the entrance. My only complaint with the entrance to both The Steak House and Harbourside on the other end of the basement floor is the insistence on walking down some visually unappealing staircases to get there. There has also been some clever use of mirrors on the windows that help to expand the harbour skyline for diners. It’s the Regent, so you can expect a large collection of very premium wines. But, for the average Joe, this will remain a place for that very special occasion.

Quick Notes 

Price for two: 

$4,000 excluding drinks

Address: 

G/F, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel. 2313 2313

Opening Hours: 

Monday to Saturday: 6pm – 11pm

Sunday: 11.30am – 2.30pm, 6pm – 11pm