LSA Reviews: LUMA launches new limited-time series with ex-Octavium chef Bjoern Alexander

Since Hong Kong reopened its borders, local diners have been lucky enough to try many four-hands collaborations as a slew of international chefs made a beeline for the city. The LUMA x Bjoern Alexander Panek is one of the latest to make its debut – with a slight twist.

A Review of LUMA x Bjoern Alexander Panek

Chef Bjoern Alexander is no stranger to Hong Kong’s discerning diners for his creative Italian cuisine at the two-star Michelin Octavium. The German chef recently left Hong Kong to open Matera in Singapore and those who miss his cooking will find joy in learning that he is back for a limited time at LUMA.

LUMA is actually the new concept that has replaced Odea at FWD House 1881 (rebranded from 1881 Heritage Hotel). A collaboration between the Lubuds F&B Group and a certain credit card company, the new concept involves a revolving door of limited-time only visiting chefs, while also featuring some selections from The Queen, Lubud’s other outlet in 1881.

Alexander is scheduled to be on-site every Sunday and Monday, which presumably is when Matera in Singapore is closed, until end September. On the other days, we are told that the cooking will be handled by his “team” although it is not quite clear who they are.

His menu here is more influenced by what he has been doing for Matera in the past few months than Octavium, which will be good news for those who are wondering what the chef has been up to since he left Hong Kong. In fact, quite a few items at LUMA is from Matera’s menu such as the red prawn carpaccio, the pigeon, and the melon dessert. Don’t expect the traditional Italian fare that Alexander has perfected at Octavium. Instead, his menu plays with Asian tastes and influences that he has been inspired by in his years in Asia.

There are two options: six courses for $980 and eight courses for $1,380 with reasonably priced wine pairing options for $498 (four glasses) and $698 (six glasses). Our menu started with an appetite platter of tomato, passionfruit, chia seed and tomato jelly; smoked bean curd roll with vegetables; celtuce with Sichuan peppercorn; and Alexander’s signature scallops burrata.

The platter was arguably the best representation of the meal that was to come on the menu: western dishes mixed with distinctly Chinese ones.

The first seafood course offered a choice of the red prawn carpaccio or the lobster with carbonara sauce, eggyolk and parmesan. I chose the latter: the lobster was juicy and tender and while the carbonara sauce might have been a bit heavy for the start of the meal, there were no regrets.

Fortunately the slightly spicy Thai-style squid spaghettini with crispy garlic took off some of the carbonara edge. The half and half soup, comprising a cup of onion soup and a cup of lobster bisque, did not impress, however.

The black cod papilotte Sichuan chilli stock was a bit of a surprise as it was essentially what many of us would recognise as fish with sour vegetables that you get at most Sichuan restaurants – albeit with a better presentation here and with some delicious cod. We later found out this was a dish from The Queen.

There were some interesting choices for the mains. However, the smoked roasted local chicken and organs with lotus rice required at least two people and the lobster tofu linguine (+$700) was made for four.

We went with the USDA Ribeye cap and donabe rice with comte and beef tendons, which was turned out to be the highlight of the night. The ribeye was excellent but it was the donabe rice that took it to another level. The rice was flavourful, having absorbed the jus from the meat and the beef tendons were some of the most tender I have tasted.

There is no doubting Chef Alexander’s talent in the kitchen and the food certainly reflected that – and the food from The Queen on its own was good. However, as a menu, the mix was perhaps a little confusing for me. It didn’t help that service hadn’t run in at all when we were there on the first night and we ended up waiting between 20 to 30 minutes between courses.

Cuisine

Fusion

We Liked

Spicy Thai-style squid spaghettini with crispy garlic

Black cod papilotte Sichuan chilli stock

USDA Ribeye cap and donabe rice with comte and beef tendons

The Vibe

Not much has been changed in the décor since the restaurant’s Odea days: warm, low lighting and generous spaces between tables make for a relaxing and comfortable dining experience. The space is segmented and there’s now a jazz band in the main bar area, separated enough for diners not to be disturbed but near enough for us to enjoy the music in the back portion.

Quick Notes 

Price for two:

$2,800 excluding drinks

Address:

G/F, FWD House 1881 Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel. 3988 0088

Opening Hours:
Daily: 12nn to 11pm (last order 9.30pm)