Shek Tong Tsui, a relatively traditional neighbourhood on the western end of Hong Kong island, is not a place you would go to for contemporary Chinese cuisine. But that is about to change with the opening of The Praya at One-Eight-One Hotel.
A Review of The Praya
Chinese cuisine is going through a bit of a renaissance lately with younger chefs bringing their western training back to their roots. While nothing hits home quite like a good traditional Cantonese steamed fish or dim sum, it has also been interesting to discover what twists these young chefs have been bringing to the table.
Hong Kong-born Chef Samuel Ng is staking his claim as one of these young mavericks at The Praya, a “Neo-Chinese” restaurant that recently opened at the One-Eight-One Hotel, where is he is adding his own touches to traditional Cantonese fare.
There are many options available for meals here: two- or three-course set lunches (price of main course + $70 – $120), a la carte, or an eight-course tasting menu ($1,288). Since we wanted to try as much as possible, we naturally opted for the tasting menu.
The appetisers of drunken clams steeped in Shaoxing wine and sprinkled with garden herbs; marinated local kampachi with Bonito soy, chilli and garlic; and the sourdough spring onion pancakes, pickled onion salad and fuyu cream, were already signs that we were in for a few surprises.
The pairing of the Shaoxing wine and the clams was an excellent combination as the umami of the wine brought out the sweetness of the fresh and fleshy clams even more. The kampachi was served more as a crudo but with the added kick of chilli, not a usual Chinese preference.
The sourdough spring onion pancakes reminded me of the African frena, with a fluffiness not found in Chinese pancakes. The use of sourdough offered a contemporary twist and the accompanying thick and creamy fuyu (fermented bean curd) cream was inspired.
We switched out our fish head for the grilled threefinger threadfin with 30-year salted lemon and preserved olives – and had no regrets. The skin was crispy while the meat retained its moistness but it was the sauce of salted lemon and preserved olives that made the umami so vibrant.
The pièce de résistance for me was the gold coin eel coated with smoked honey and served with sourdough pancakes and housemade pickles. Cooked on a skewer, the eel was grilled to perfection, crispy and succulent at the same time.
We skipped the master stock beef quintet because it was already a lot of food for just three of us and dove straight into the mains. The steamed egg custard with slippers lobster was not as silky smooth as I would have liked and it seemed a waste of the lobster, especially since this costs $688 on the a la carte menu.
The claypot vegetable rice with chargrilled master stock chicken was aromatic and flavourful, and more than made up for the egg custard. It had shades of Hainanese chicken rice especially with the fermented chill sauce. The crunchy kale in ginger essence was the perfect match for it.
The meal rounded up with walnut financiers and hazelnut ice cream and generous helpings of petit fours. It was a menu that definitely sums up the influences that the chef has had while honing his skills at places such as Stanley in Brisbane, Australia, and Ho Lee Fook in Hong Kong.
Cuisine
Neo-Chinese
We Loved
Drunken clams steeped in Shaoxing wine
Grilled threefinger threadfin with 30-year salted lemon and preserved olives
Gold coin eel coated with smoked honey
Claypot vegetable rice with chargrilled master stock chicken
The Vibe
Being a hotel restaurant, The Praya has to contend with guests’ breakfasts, hence the 7am opening hour. But come lunch or dinner, diners can opt for the full Chinese menu. Because it is the only dining space in the hotel, it has to cater for hybrid use so the space comprises a main dining hall, a bar, a small terrace and an 18-seat private dining room. The main hall, with some interesting art pieces on show, is bathed in natural light in the day and offers a very relaxing unfettered view of the harbour.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
$2,600 tasting menu, excluding drinks
Address:
Level 3, 181 Connaught Road West, Shek Tong Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel. 3181 1666
Opening Hours:
Daily, 7am – 11pm
Tags
Written by
Winnie Chung is an experienced lifestyle journalist who has covered everything from showbiz and Hong Kong films, to food, and all things luxury. After being grounded by the pandemic, she found a renewed appreciation for Hong Kong's vibrant and diverse dining scene.
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