LSA Reviews: Salsa your way to taco and tamale pleasure at El Taquero  

Mexican restaurants in Hong Kong often fall firmly into the #IYKYK category. Unless you’re a big fan of tacos and mezcal, Taco Tuesdays may not be a regular calendar entry. El Taquero which recently opened its doors in Wan Chai is hoping to change that.

A Review of El Taquero

Mexican restaurants are known for their boisterous and casual atmosphere, with the margaritas, micheladas and tequila-based adding to the party spirit. El Taquero, the latest in the Epicurean group of restaurants that also owns Ship Kee and The Peak Lookout, is promising all these and more.

Most of the better taco places in Hong Kong, strangely enough, tend to congregate on the western part of Hong Kong island or in Tsim Sha Tsui. El Taquero enjoys quite a central location at the corner of Queen’s Road East and Ship Street.

Although it is on the cul-de-sac at the quiet end of Ship Street, it’s not easy to miss its cheerful coral-pink façade. I can already see diners spilling out onto the cul-de-sac on busy nights, with beer in one hand and a taco in the other.

In full disclosure: while I respect the rich culinary traditions of Mexican food, it’s not something I particularly seek out. So, I took it as an adventure when I accepted an invitation for a weekend brunch tasting at El Taquero recently.

Throwing caution to the winds, I ordered a Verdita Michelada ($88), made up of pineapple juice, jalapeno sauce, Mexican spices, fresh mint, coriander and cerveza (beer) – and a topping of crunchy grasshoppers. It was a very light cocktail, and the roasted grasshoppers were a lot delectable than I expected.

The drink went well with our guacamole and tortilla chips ($128) which was simply outstanding. The avocados were smooth and creamy, resulting in a luxurious and flavourful dip but it was the pico de gallo (fresh tomato salsa) on top that made it a fantastic appetiser.

The chicken tamale ($66) came highly recommended and it did not disappoint. The flavours were well-balanced, with hints of warm spices and a touch of savoury goodness from the chicken. Made for sharing, it was comforting and fulfilling dish.

Of course, we had to have the tacos. The fish sayulita taco ($56) featuring mahi mahi was a good choice. The combination of the fresh cabbage, pico de gallo, and cheese added a burst of freshness and tanginess to the taco that was light and refreshing.

The nopales taco ($46) showcased preserved cactus, which had a slightly piquant and crunchy texture, and was complemented well by the freshness of the pico de gallo and the boldness of the salsa roja. Both taco fillings were generous – perhaps a little too generous for the slightly smaller house-made tortillas.  Be ready for a bit of a mess from the overspill.

For the al pastor grill experience , we chose the slow-cooked short ribs mixiote ($288) in a cactus leaf  wrapping. While the juices was rich and savoury, the meat was a little overcooked and chewy for me.

No Mexican meal would be complete without churros ($68). We gave the vanilla ice cream a miss and opted for just the chocolate sauce. The churros were crunchy and less doughy than many others I have tasted in Hong Kong. It made for a reasonably light dessert even with the rich chocolate sauce.

It was a reasonably affordable and cheerful meal: perfect for a quick and casual weekend brunch before shopping or a movie. El Taquero also offers a weekday two-course lunch set for $149 that includes a choice of tacos, enchiladas or al pastor.

Cuisine

Mexican

We Recommend

Entrees: Guacamole ($128)

Tacos:  Fish Sayulita ($56)

Dessert: Churros ($68)

Drinks: Verdita Michelada ($88)

The Vibe

Although it is on the cul-de-sac at the quiet end of Ship Street, it’s not easy to miss El Taquero’s cheerful coral-pink façade. I can already see diners spilling out onto the cul-de-sac on busy nights, with beer in one hand and a taco in the other. As expected, a Saturday brunch would be a little quieter than a Friday night here. Still, it was a pleasant ambience and not too noisy, even with a large party of 12 at the next table. While the tables are small, there is still some decent space between them allowing for some privacy. The restaurant seats 45, which includes seats at the bar, the window, a smattering of high stools and a row of banquet seats.

Quick Notes 

Price for two:

$800 with two drinks

Address:

Shops B-F, G/F, Yan King Court,
No. 119 Queen’s Road East,
Wan Chai,

Tel. 2811 1998

Opening Hours:
Daily: lunch (noon – 3pm) and dinner (5pm till late)