Drawing inspiration from kappo’s intimate craftsmanship and teppanyaki’s captivating spectacle, Chef Terufumi Mihara embarked on a culinary journey to merge these two distinct styles. His new Teppanyaki Mihara Goten (TMG) in Causeway Bay is a testament to his “Wa Modern” vision, offering diners a unique and harmonious dining experience that seamlessly combines tradition with modernity.
A Review of Teppanyaki Mihara Goten
One thing that kappo restaurants have in common with teppanyaki is that both feature counter seating where diners can watch as the chefs prepare their food up close. Teppanyaki, of course, involves the art of grilling, sometimes with theatrics – although this is rare in Hong Kong – while kappo arguably allows chefs to be a little more creative in their cooking and presentation.
Teppanyaki Mihara Goten, meaning “palace” in Japanese, merges kappo and teppanyaki styles with a fresh and modern approach. Chef Mihara, formerly of Teppanyaki Mihara in Tseung Kwan O, began his culinary journey as an Italian dessert chef before being captivated by teppanyaki and later kappo. So, be prepared to expect the unexpected because despite its name, TMG is not your run-of-the-mill teppanyaki. Instead, he combines his diverse experiences to create innovative dishes that showcase the best of his culinary worlds.
The 11-course dinner menu sets feature both the normal set (from $1,580) and the deluxe set ($2,280) with the difference being the seasonal ingredients that are served. For the purposes of this review, we were served a much bigger menu than usual.
The first appetiser of persimmon namasu and pumpkin somen already set the tone for what was to come: it looked like a beautifully crafted martini. To my surprise, the “cocktail” revealed itself as a refreshing and delightful somen dish. It was a clever and refreshing start.
Next on the menu was the sashimi of the day, which was presented as a tuna tartare reminiscent of beef tartare. The freshness of the tuna, combined with the expertly balanced flavours and textures, made for a delightful and unique twist on a classic dish. The savoury egg custard with truffle sauce was served in the eggshell. The chawanmushi was velvety smooth, and the aroma of truffle permeated each bite, elevating the dish to a new level of indulgence.
One of the standout dishes was the grilled king crab crepe. The succulent king crab meat was encased in a light and crispy batter, providing a contrast of textures. The flavours were enhanced by the grill and the sauce, resulting in a harmonious combination that left me craving for more.
The unexpected but delightful addition to the menu was the grilled fish maw in creamy chicken soup, not something you see very often in Japanese menus. The fish maw was just very lightly grilled, imparting a slight smoky flavour, while the creamy chicken soup added a comforting richness.
The ezo abalone was cooked in-shell and broiled in its own juices. It was surprisingly tender and the generous topping of sea urchin made it a true indulgence. The grilled rockfish with clam butter sauce was a true delight for seafood lovers. The fish had a beautifully crunchy skin and tender flesh, perfectly complemented by the rich clam butter sauce that was full of umami.
The grilled Australian lobster with rich hollandaise sauce showcased the delicate sweetness and smokiness of the lobster, enhanced by the velvety hollandaise sauce. The A4 Miyazaki wagyu beef sirloin thick cut was perhaps the most representative of the teppan. The marbled wagyu beef was cooked to perfection on the teppan, resulting in tender, melt-in-your-mouth slices of beef that retained its original beef flavours.
The two rice dishes that marked the end of the meal were simply outstanding. The foie gras rice was delightfully decadent. The rich and creamy foie gras paired beautifully with the fragrant rice. The grilled eel rice was a mix of smokiness and fragrance. Both were complemented perfectly by the red miso soup made with the head of the lobster from the earlier dish.
Chef Mihara’s Italian dessert training came to the fore with the desserts of strawberry soup with homemade vanilla ice-cream and chestnut tiramisu, which was a nice twist on the classic sweet with the earthy flavours complementing the creamy layers of the tiramisu.
With many diners looking for variety and innovative dining experiences, TMG will have a new appeal for the many foodies in the city with the diversity of its kappo and teppanyaki fusion.
Cuisine
Kappo Teppanyaki
The Vibe
Teppanyaki Mihara Gouten shares the third floor of CUBUS in Causeway Bay with sister restaurant Sushi Houzan and a soon-to-open new bar that will be able to offer creative custom cocktails to diners of both restaurants. The counter at TMG seats 14 with its curved shape offering more comfort and less of a sushi bar and elbow-to-elbow feel. High leather seats and marble counter-tops exude a more luxurious feel and there is ample space to move around.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
Kappo Teppanyaki set for two: from $3,600 (excluding drinks and service charge)
Kappo Teppanyaki Deluxe set for two: from $4,600 (excluding drinks and service charge)
Lunch sets start from $480 per head.
Address:
3/F CUBUS, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay.
Tel. 5394 3689
Opening Hours:
Daily, 12nn – 2.30pm, 6pm – 11pm
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Written by
Winnie Chung is an experienced lifestyle journalist who has covered everything from showbiz and Hong Kong films, to food, and all things luxury. After being grounded by the pandemic, she found a renewed appreciation for Hong Kong's vibrant and diverse dining scene.
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