Gu Liang Cai, which translates into “nine taels” in the Chiu Chow dialect, is a new fast-casual Chiu Chow restaurant in the Central Market space which pays homage to Chiu Chow cuisine while incorporating innovative and contemporary culinary methods. The restaurant offers marinated delicacies with a unique twist, using Western techniques like sous-vide.
A Review of Gu Liang Cai
Gu Liang Cai is the latest in the Lubud’s group that has most recently welcomed restaurants such as Luma and Yuan. The menu takes traditional Chiu Chow delicacies and tries to elevate them with more innovative cooking methods.
Our Chiu Chow experience started with the flathead grey mullet (which the menu had translated to black pomfret) with salted fish sauce ($388), although the menu had promised threadfin. It was a missed opportunity. While the sauce had a delightful appetising quality, mullet flesh is usually coarser and not really the best choice for a cold fish dish. It was disappointing and left us longing for the more delicate threadfin texture.
The goose platter ($428) that came after was literally a huge surprise as it showcased a whole goose from head to tail, meticulously marinated in Chiu Chow brine and soy sauce. The dish could feed a family but we were only two. The meat served in slices and on bone was tender and juicy but the marinade fell short of expectations, without the layers of more matured marinades and overwhelming the palate with its saltiness which overshadowed the subtler notes of herbs and spices.
Yet, amidst the hits and misses, there were shinier moments. The goose liver ($298), rich and velvety, was a lavish portion that bordered on extravagance. The inclusion of tofu slices provided a welcome respite, offering a balance of flavours and textures.
The Chiu Chow raw marinated prawns ($138) showcased the kitchen’s finesse. The marinade struck the perfect balance, with just the right amount of spice, while the liberal dose of chilies added a tantalising kick. It was a delightful nod to the vibrant flavours of Thai raw marinated prawns albeit with a lot less garlic than the latter.
For comfort and nourishment, the salted vegetable and pig stomach soup with peppercorn ($388) delivered. The soup would be perfect for the coming cooler months. However, a touch more pepper would have added an invigorating punch to the already comforting brew.
The hero of the night was the marinated mixed pork and offal ($288). Cooked in a pressure cooker that was brought tableside to be served, the sizzling dish was aromatic and piping hot. The pressure cooker worked its magic, rendering the meat and offal exquisitely tender and succulent.
While Gu Liang Cai may have had its ups and downs, the restaurant offers a clean and modern option to the usual grimy Chiu Chow da-laang places in the city. Efforts for creative reinterpretation of traditional dishes and the dedication to innovation are evident although the kitchen might need a little more time to perfect them.
The pricing of the dishes leans towards the higher end considering the restaurant set-up, with most of the marinade options surpassing $150. It’s challenging to discern the underlying reasoning behind the pricing structure, particularly considering the cost of the pig’s stomach soup was $388 while the marinated mixed pork and offal was only $288. Opting to dine in a group would be advisable, as it offers a more cost-effective approach to experiencing the varied offerings of the menu.
Cuisine
Chiu Chow
We Liked
Chiu Chow marinated prawns ($138)
Marinated mixed pork and offal ($288)
The Vibe
Gu Liang Cai occupies a significant space on the first floor of Central Market, immerses you in a nostalgic atmosphere with its captivating neon lights and charming display of old-school tiffins and vintage vacuum flasks. As the restaurant sits smack in the middle of the space, don’t expect to enjoy much privacy from people walking around and shopping at nearby stores. If you can ignore people gawking at your food, however, the space is reasonably comfortable with well-spaced seats.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
$1,000 – $1,200 excluding drinks
Address:
Shop 124-125, 1/F, Central Market, 93 Queen’s Road Central, Central
Tel. 2117 1919
Opening Hours:
Daily, 11.30am – 10pm
Tags
Written by
Winnie Chung is an experienced lifestyle journalist who has covered everything from showbiz and Hong Kong films, to food, and all things luxury. After being grounded by the pandemic, she found a renewed appreciation for Hong Kong's vibrant and diverse dining scene.
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