LSA Reviews: Gordon Ramsay’s new British gastropub at The Londoner packs a tasty punch

It’s probably safe to say that the possibility of seeing Gordon Ramsay on your television screen will be significantly higher than meeting him at one of his 50-plus restaurants. But that hasn’t stopped the chef and star of television shows such as Kitchen Nightmares and MasterChef from expanding his culinary empire. The Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill in The Londoner in Macau is one of his latest.

A Review of Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill

The Macau outpost is not the first time Ramsay has been in this neck of the woods: from 2108 to 2020, he opened Bread Street Kitchen, London House Gordon Ramsay, and Maze Grill in Hong Kong with local partners. Unfortunately, none of them survived the pandemic. Maze Grill closed before I got the chance to try it and Bread Street Kitchen started off well but started slipping even before the pandemic. So, I have to confess I walked into the Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill for lunch with a wee bit of scepticism.

While the venue aims for more of an elegant casual vibe, the menu is an unpretentious nod to traditional British pub fare and many of Ramsay’s own signature dishes. We started with the beetroot cured salmon ($228) and the scallops with cauliflower and black pudding ($298).

The beetroot not only imparted a distinctive reddish tinge to the salmon but also infused it with a subtle sweetness and earthiness. The cured fish had a firmer, chewy texture with the horseradish, chopped shallots and beetroot dressing as well as the rye croutons intensifying the flavours. The scallops with cauliflower, toasted pine nuts, black pudding and raisins offered a similar a burst of flavours and textures.

Ramsay’s take on the classic fish and chips ($248) was a definite palate pleaser. The batter was thin and crispy. Cut open, it allowed the fresh aromas of the perfectly cooked, silky line-caught trout to waft through. Accompanied by hand-cut, golden-brown chips that were equally crisp and wonderfully fluffy on the inside, this dish is a true comfort food delight. This was one of the best fish and chips I have had in recent memory.

The beef Wellington ($598) will probably be familiar to those who have dined at any of Ramsay’s gastropubs. The beef was a stunning pink hue, enticingly tender and oozing with juiciness, and served with silky smooth cream mashed potatoes and a red wine jus. Encased in a flaky, golden-brown puff pastry crust and a delicate layer of savoury mushroom duxelles, each bite was rewarded with a medley of rich and savoury notes and the heady aroma of the mushrooms.

The Alaska bomb ($88) was a showstopper dessert that impressed both visually and in taste. This meringue was delicately torched to achieve a beautiful caramelised exterior that contrasted with the refreshing ice cream within.

While not as visually stunning, the apple tarte tatin ($88) combined simplicity with elegance. The caramelised apples, in generous thick slices, added a delightful sweetness to the dish. Served warm, the tarte tatin was balanced out by a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream on top and a thick pastry base. This delightful marriage of textures and flavours brought the meal to a memorable end.

This experience has restored some of my faith in Ramsay’s restaurants. The comfortable settings, quality of food and reasonable prices will no doubt make this a popular stop for tourists as well as high rollers.

Cuisine

British

We Recommend

Appetiser

Scallops with cauliflower and black pudding ($298).

Main Course

Fish and chips ($248)

Dessert

Apple tarte tartin ($88)

The Vibe
With many of the Macau resorts being so integrated nowadays, it’s easy to get lost while looking for a restaurant or shop. Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill is at an excellent location just off the front doors of The Londoner hotel, making it easy to find for those not familiar with the hotel.  The premises are plush and elegant with floor-to-ceiling glass exteriors framed by dark wood – quite reminiscent of the Maze Grill’s vibe, minus the Victoria Harbour views. The menu is not huge but most of the classic pub grub is available. There’s also a bar, making it a good stop for weary shoppers who might want a drink and some bar snacks before dinner. Food portions are quite generous, making it easy to share if you so desire. The restaurant also offers set menus of two- and three-course on weekdays at the very good prices of $298 and $328, respectively.

Quick Notes

Price for two:

$1,400 excluding drinks

Address:

Level 1, The Londoner, Macao

Tel.  +853 8118 8822

Opening Hours:
Daily, 11am-3pm, 6pm-11pm