LSA Reviews: Brut’s new chef brings a Filipino touch to the revamped menu

In recent years, there have been more Filipino restaurants opening in Hong Kong. Just this year, Barkada opened its doors while Dara relocated to a bigger venue. With the increased interest in Filipino cuisine, it only feels right that Filipino chefs are also getting the due they deserve. And Brut is certainly bringing a Filipino touch to its new menu courtesy of the new head chef, CJ Jalandoni.

A Review of Brut

Chef Jalandoni is taking the helm from Gavin Chin who is now spearheading House of Culture, which is also in Sai Ying Pun. The new Filipino chef created a menu that’s close to his heart by tapping into his Filipino heritage. Just like how diverse the Philippines is, the menu is a mixed bag of sorts, taking influences from Jalandoni’s wealth of multicultural experiences. As a Filipino, it’s very easy to recognise what makes some of the dishes Filipino, even if it’s not too obvious. In fact, I’d argue that Jalandoni’s take is very modern and elegant and yet faithful. It’s fun to see how certain Filipino dishes that I grew up with at home can be elevated to almost fine dining standards. Yet, the hints are subtle and Jalandoni doesn’t advertise them as “Filipino dishes” so anyone can enjoy them.

And with that, we start off the meal with the hamachi kilawin carpaccio ($158). It draws inspiration from kinilaw, the Philippines’ answer to ceviche. It’s an interesting dish particularly because kinilaw isn’t as popular as adobo (vinegar-braised dish) or sinigang (sour stew). But maybe that’s why chef Jalandoni chose it, to give the dish the spotlight it deserves. While I’m not particularly a fan of raw food, I was taken aback by the thinly sliced hamachi. The coconut and calamansi vinaigrette perfectly blend with the hamachi that melts in your mouth.

But the main star of this dish is the use of asin tibuok, a rare and indigenous type of sea salt made only in the Philippines. It’s an ingredient that’s on the verge of going extinct particularly because of the long process it takes to make it. Jalandoni explains that there are only a few families left that are still making asin tibuok. And to be able to see (and taste it) in a dish in Hong Kong is an experience in itself. Even with just a few drops of asin tibuok, you can already taste how different it is from regular sea salt.

The next dish was the sunchoke salad ($128). My favourite part of this dish is the coffee-flavoured ricotta which tastes refreshing. And coffee as a dressing? That felt new. It was a good call to have this after the strong, saltier flavours of the hamachi. Up next is the miso vegetable (part of the tasting menu) which is a lighter dish. Apparently, it had tuna tataki cut into small chunks but I could barely taste it. That wasn’t a bad thing because the vegetables were grazed into a strong-flavoured sauce, which almost tasted like teriyaki yet had sweeter notes. It was a good balance between the tuna and the vegetables.

Then, there was the amadai ($188) which was beautifully wrapped in cabbage leaves. In addition to its gorgeous presentation, the wrapping preserves the fish’s rich flavour and tenderness. Now, it was difficult to tell that the bisque-style sauce was made from Filipino crab fat but I love the combination of the horsehead fish and the richness of the bisque. I also had the Mediterranean octopus with walnut glazed squash ($288), another dish on the lighter side. The octopus is cooked just right, not too tough nor too chewy. The sauce is a little mild especially since there wasn’t much seasoning on the octopus.

Finally, we ended the meal at Brut with a dish that was more reminiscent of home. The braised short rib (part of the tasting menu) was not what I expected it to be. It turned out to be a deconstructed version of kare kare which is a peanut butter stew. Instead of using beef, the short rib made it easier to eat and chew. And you can really taste the strong peanut butter flavour, the hallmarks of a great kare kare dish. What impressed me the most was the addition of the bagoong (shrimp paste) inside the vegetables. It proved chef Jalandoni’s attention to detail. Those not familiar with the dish might not even taste the shrimp paste but it’s a staple in a kare kare. Plus, kare kare isn’t known for its presentation but this one looked too pretty to eat.

Brut’s menu comes with either a three or five-glass wine pairing. We highly recommend trying it because the wine goes well with the dishes, particularly because the flavours can be strong. It made the dining experience more memorable. I appreciate that they didn’t try to overwhelm us with too much wine. The only thing I wished they had was a dessert. I believe there’s an option on the menu but there weren’t many to pick from. Since the price is affordable, the portions seemed enough, though the meal is on the lighter side. Instead of a full dinner, I’d consider it more of a pre-meal. That said, it’s amazing to see a Filipino chef bringing a personal touch to his dishes in a fun, creative way that appeals to the local palette while being nostalgic to those familiar with Filipino flavours.

Cuisine

Fusion

We Recommend

Hamachi ‘Kilawin’ Carpaccio ($158)

Sunchoke Salad ($128)

Braised Short Rib (Part of the tasting menu)

The Vibe

Brut’s space is intimate with only 24 seating. The interiors are very minimalistic with a black and white bar counter and rustic walls. Once inside, it’s confusing if the place is for a casual or a typical dinner date. Brut is perfect for wine lovers as they have an extensive list of wines but I hope they also have non-alcoholic drinks available, other than water. Given its limited space, it feels much better to go there for a short meal instead of staying too long. All the seats are also bar stools so expect to be touching elbows if there are other diners next to you. But I suppose that makes for a feeling of ‘exclusivity’ if there are only a few seats.

Quick Notes

Price for two: 

Five-course tasting menu – $550

With additional three-glass pairing — $380

With additional five-glass pairing — $580

Address:
Shop C, 11 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong

Tel. 3460 5863

Opening Hours:
Dinner: 6.00pm – 10.00pm (Monday to Saturday, closed on Sundays)