LSA Reviews: Auntie Malay offers fusion twists to traditional Malaysian fare in Harbour City

There has been a proliferation of Malaysian/Singaporean restaurants in Hong Kong since the pandemic with increased demand from homesick Southeast Asians who couldn’t travel home. Auntie Malay, which recently opened at Ocean Terminal, is hoping to add some innovative choices for those craving more than the traditional laksa or Hainan chicken rice.

A Review of Auntie Malay

I was rather excited to learn there was a new option for a taste of home in Hong Kong; the chain restaurants offering Southeast Asian fare has so far not managed to impress and Café Malacca at Hotel Jen has remained the place to go to for authentic fare from both Singapore and Malaysia.

Auntie Malay stays true to its name and executive chef Wee Hor Han, who hails from Malaysia but has spent years working at hotels abroad and The Hong Kong Jockey Club, brings his home influences to the fore with some added twists and surprises.

I’m all for elevating and modernising Malaysian cuisine – after all, most of the best food are the ones you find at local hawker stalls where flavours precedes presentations. Arguably, some degree of fusion might be effective in introducing the cuisine to a wider demographic of diners.

No doubt local diners will enjoy the keropok keping ($88) which takes the Hong Kong’s love for the deep fried fish skin – caramelised and flavoured with lime leaves and pistachio – to a new level of sweetness. It went very well with the complimentary fragrant lychee red tea.

Auntie’s secret crispy chicken (half – $238) marinated with the chef’s homemade curry sauce added a subtle spicy kick to familiar flavours of the lemongrass and galangal. The chicken was coated with a thin layer of tapioca flour which gave it a delightful crunch on the outside while meat retained all the spice flavours.

The asam pedas spicy and sour tiger prawn omelette ($158) was a very creative take on the traditional nyonya recipe – looking more like a western omelette drenched with the spicy and sour tamarind sauce. We were recommended to take this with the saccharine pandan kaya toast ($58). To me, there were too many flavours fighting for the spotlight.

The oyster omelette ($128) arrived at the table looking exactly like it did in the menu: fluffy and crisp, browned to perfection and with a generous portion of oysters. The first bite did not disappoint – the surprise came at the bottom where the chef had introduce a doughy base.

The highlights of the meal came with the Shiok! Shiok! beef cheek rendang ($268) made with the chef’s secret curry sauce made from turmeric and a variety of spices. The curry was rich and pungent and the beef cheek was so tender it practically melted in the mouth. This was paired more sensibly with grilled coconut-infused glutinous rice but I could also imagine eating this with Chinese mantou or roti canai.

The Yo Abang! Hainan chicken paella ($368) was a new twist that worked. A large part of what elevates Hainan chicken dishes is the rice and the chef has fused the Malaysian claypot rice with the traditional chicken oil rice and added dried shrimps, taro, and Chinese cured sausage. Steamed with lemongrass, pandan leaves, galangal, ginger and garlic, the rice which was prepared table-side provided a symphony of flavours.

No Malaysian meal would be complete without noodles and we opted for two classics: the seafood laksa ($148) and Penang char kway teow ($148). The laksa could have done with a spicier kick but the char kway teow had enough wok hei to satisfy. However, with no special ingredients, $148 seems quite overpriced.

We ended the evening with the egg pudding with pistachio and crumbs ($88) and ice jelly with passionfruit, raisin and almond flakes ($68). The egg pudding reminded me of the custard but with the added crunch of the pistachio and crumbs. The ice jelly was absolutely refreshing with the added tang of passionfruit and lime slices – it would be the perfect summer dessert.

With the huge varieties offered with Malaysian cuisine, it’s hard to please everyone with every dish. Auntie Malay may not hit the mark with everything, but there’s enough there to keep diners happy.

Cuisine

Malaysian

We Recommend

Appetiser

Keropok keping caramelised fish skin ($88)

Main Course

Shiok! Shiok! beef cheek rendang ($268)

Dessert

Ice jelly with passionfruit, raisin and almond flakes ($68)

The Vibe
Auntie Malay took over the premises right at the end of Ocean Terminal vacated by Hainan Shaoye from the same Drawing Room Concepts. The place exudes a colourful, bright and sunny vibe and is decorated with Southeast Asian motifs and paintings. It offers a nice view of the harbour, especially in the day. There are comfortable banquette seats and a “birdcage” sofa that’s an Instagrammer’s dream. The restaurant is not huge and would be best for small groups, especially since many of the dishes are for sharing as well.

Quick Notes

Price for two:

$900 (excluding drinks and 10% service)

Address:

Shop 16, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel. 2110 3533

Opening Hours
Daily: 11am – 10pm