Wagyu beef has earned its reputation as one of the most prized and popular meats in the culinary world for its exceptional marbling, tenderness and juiciness. Wagyu kappou restaurants where chefs serve all-Wagyu menus are less common in Hong Kong than in Japan. Popular Osaka and Nara Wagyu restaurant Nikutoieba Matsuda is now bringing their Wagyu specialities to Hong Kong with their first international outpost.
A Review of Nikutoieba Matsuda
Nikutoieba Matsuda is a relatively new name in the Japanese culinary scene having only been founded in 2020 by Yasuhiro Matsuda and Shinji Masuda. Despite that, the brand has gained widespread recognition and acclaim including a listing in the Michelin Guide and Top 500 list of popular culinary site, Tabelog.
With its opening in Hong Kong, Nikutoieba Matsuda (which translates to “when you are talking about meat, you are talking about Matsuda”) joins only a smattering of kappou places – including the more theatrical Wagyumafia – offering a completely Wagyu-centric menu.
While Wagyu is much appreciated, it has detractors who find the marbling too fatty. As one course out of an omakase menu, it usually offers a welcome variation in textures but many would balk at 14 courses of pure Wagyu. Naturally, the choice protein is usually also in the upper price ranges.
When I first heard Nikutoieba Matsuda had opened in Gough Street in Hong Kong, I was more than a little intrigued and, I admit, hesitant. Wagyu beef has increasingly taken a back seat in my menu choices for precisely the fattiness and the often-prohibitive prices. But Nikutoieba Matsuda’s 14-course menu comes at a very attractive price of $1,280 (+ 10 per cent service charge) for dinner.
My fears were unfounded. From the starting potage of brown mushroom through Wagyu every which way until the final dessert of homemade sweet potato ice cream, it was a great discovery of how the protein could be cooked and presented with such a variety of textures and flavours. As with most omakase menus, the menu here will be subject to seasonal changes.
The restaurant specialises in Yamato Wagyu beef, which comes from Japanese Black cattle bred in the Nara Prefecture in the Kansai district. Chef Ishibashi Hitoshi eased us into the meal with the familiar sushi, wrapped in nori and topped with a mix of beef tartare and yellow pickled daikon. The crunchy nori and daikon enhanced each mouthful of the buttery beef.
The Wagyu fillet was the chef’s interpretation of the Korean “yukhoe” (tartare); while the fillet was lightly seared and not raw, the onion, oba and sauce brought distinct flavours. Korean influences were also at play with the charcoal-grilled Wagyu Harami, served with just a smidgen of wasabi.
The roast beef, sansho and eggplant was another simple dish with a drop of balsamic vinegar offsetting the richness of the meat. The meat was slightly charred on the outside but maintained its pink centre; it worked with the beef slices but not so much the Wagyu tongue, which came in thicker slices which made each bite more squishy than I like – especially after having been shown the massive uncooked tongue prior.
The highlights for me came with the cooked dishes after the salad and seasonal fruits with mascarpone. The beef stew and potato was rich and indulgent while the sirloin cut was served two ways – shabu shabu-style with a clear soup and a sukiyaki with seasonal mushroom, but served on a base of egg yolk rather than the usual sweet sukiyaki sauce.
No Wagyu meal would be complete without the fillet sando sandwich. Nikutoieba Matsuda’s version was a little drier than I liked and perhaps a little less refined in presentation than the ones at Wagyumafia. However, we managed to end on a high note with the satisfying and hearty Wagyu curry.
The various cooking methods employed to prepare the Wagyu beef ensured that the meal was a harmonious balance of flavours and textures, preventing it from becoming an overwhelming onslaught of fatty meat. Despite indulging in a satisfying portion, I found myself pleasantly satiated rather than overly stuffed or uncomfortable.
Cuisine
Japanese Wagyu kappou
The Vibe
Nikutoeiba Matsuda has taken over the space that previously housed Sushi Awaji. Wood walls and furnishings carry a very Zen vibe, making one very conscious to loud chatter, which was pleasing. The restaurant only takes nine at its counter where diners can see Chef Ishibashi Hitoshi work his magic with the different cuts of Wagyu. If you have larger groups, you can ask for one of the two private rooms. At the time of writing, however, the rooms are still no operational but is expected to be available soon.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
$2,560 (excluding drinks and service charge)
Address:
G/F 39, Gough Street, Central
Tel. 6060 5447
Opening Hours:
Monday – Saturday, 6pm – 10pm
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Written by
Winnie Chung is an experienced lifestyle journalist who has covered everything from showbiz and Hong Kong films, to food, and all things luxury. After being grounded by the pandemic, she found a renewed appreciation for Hong Kong's vibrant and diverse dining scene.
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