In the world of haute cuisine, three-star Michelin chef Christian Le Squer is a master of both precision and artistry. At 30, he received a tough lesson from an unexpected critic that would shape his career – and now, at La Maison 1888 in Vietnam, he’s sharing these tales and tastes that have defined his culinary journey.
When three-star Michelin chef Christian Le Squer was just finding his footing in the culinary industry at the age of 30, he had one of the most memorable experiences of his life.
An older man had ordered a dish and, visibly unsatisfied, he asked to speak to the chef. “Little boy,” the man thundered, “you don’t know how to cook a piece of chicken.” Le Squer, deeply apologetic, offered to waive the man’s bill as compensation, but the gentleman insisted he would pay and said he would return the next day.
“You don’t know how to cook meat, so tomorrow, you will serve egg mayonnaise,” the man said.
As promised, the man returned the next day, and Chef Christian Le Squer prepared the egg mayonnaise with trepidation. Again, the man asked to speak to him, and Le Squer braced himself for more criticism. To his surprise, the gentleman smiled and said, “Young boy, you will go very far.”
Years later, this gentleman, who prophesied Le Squer’s immense success, became a dear friend. Four years after their encounter, Le Squer earned his first Michelin star at Café de la Paix.
This is just one of the many personal stories Le Squer shared with me at La Maison 1888, the signature culinary destination at the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, one of Vietnam’s most spectacular and hospitable beach resorts.
The night before, select media personalities from around the world were invited to wine and dine with the celebrated chef at La Maison 1888, which was awarded one Michelin star this July, making it the only restaurant in central Vietnam with this honour.
“We are thrilled to welcome Chef Christian to InterContinental Danang,” said Seif Hamdy, the resort’s General Manager, addressing the guests. “He is, quite simply, one of the world’s greatest chefs—the holder of three Michelin stars for 22 consecutive years and Gault & Millau’s global ‘Chef of the Year’ for 2023. He will bring immense energy, creativity, and a fresh vision to truly elevate our guest experience.”
It’s a prestigious acquisition for InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort and La Maison 1888, given that Le Squer is among the most respected names in the culinary world and a pioneer in French fine dining. After achieving early success at Café de la Paix, Chef Le Squer joined the renowned Pavillon Ledoyen in 1999, helping it secure three Michelin stars—a feat he later repeated at Le Cinq, the iconic restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris.
“Nowadays, chefs are becoming stars,” Le Squer says with a hearty laugh. “I live in a world where CEOs of big organisations, notable lawyers, and celebrated doctors like to have a chef as a friend. In Paris, we have a very exclusive club called The Club of the 100, which includes top CEOs, doctors, economists, writers, and artists. When someone in this group needs something, they call on one of these 100. Life is easy, isn’t it?”
As engaging a conversationalist as he is a chef, Le Squer kept us riveted throughout dinner. Our seven-course meal began with a series of elegant amuse-bouches, followed by the delicate Langoustine De Nos Côtes. The rich mayonnaise perfectly complemented the langoustine, with the pancake adding a nutty element to the dish.
We were then introduced to one of Le Squer’s signature dishes, the Bar Sauvage. The blackfin seabass, paired with Kaviari caviar and creamy buttermilk, exceeded all expectations. However, the highlight of the night was the famed Spaghetti Debout En Gratin. This ‘standing spaghetti’ presentation went viral after Martha Stewart introduced it to rapper Snoop Dogg during the 2024 Paris Olympics. The video of its creation, with over 1.34 lakh likes and 6 million views on Le Squer’s Instagram page, showcases the dish’s earthy truffle richness, the savouriness of ham, and the complexity of mushrooms.
For those in Vietnam who wish to try this world-famous dish, reservations at La Maison 1888 are a must.
“Even the many foreigners living in Danang or elsewhere in Vietnam who miss French cuisine can come here to enjoy it again,” Le Squer says. “Every luxury hotel offers different culinary styles for guests to explore. La Maison 1888 is ideal for this.”
Throughout our dinner, Le Squer emphasised the importance of evoking emotions through food.
“Take the Pistache De Homard that we ate yesterday. You may not like the pistachio paired with the lobster bisque, but the first time you try it, it’s going to be an experience – positive or negative. All the dishes are crafted this way to create an emotion. Sometimes, they can be overpowering. People may not like it, but there will be an emotion created from this new experience of tasting something you’ve never had before. Like the fish with caviar yesterday – it creates a delicate emotion with its textures. It’s like when you’re a child, trying out all the flavours you can find,” he adds.
When asked what ultimately convinced him to work at La Maison 1888, Le Squer credits the resort’s impeccable hygiene standards.
“From the tablecloths to the kitchen, everything adheres to the highest international standards. The attention to detail, even the air conditioning set to the perfect temperature, is remarkable,” he says.
La Maison 1888 also boasts an extensive wine cellar with over 450 wine labels, 80% of which are French, focusing on Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne. The cellar houses the rarest wines in Vietnam, including the prized Domaine Henri Jayer ‘Cros Parantoux,’ valued at $90,000. During our dinner, La Maison 1888’s Head Sommelier, Amedeo Bellini, curated the perfect wine pairings.
Le Squer closes by sharing his approach to creativity. “I don’t want my cuisine to get old. Many chefs from my generation are making ‘old-people cuisine,’ and I don’t want to become that. I’m constantly experimenting to keep my food fresh. This morning at 4:30 AM, I called my chef in Paris with a new idea. By the time I return to Paris, we’ll have a variety of trials to test. Once I find the best one, we’ll create the final recipe.”
As he signed off, Le Squer compared himself to a fashion designer. “The tailor may sew the dress, but it’s the designer who imagines it. My job is to create ideas and experiences that others bring to life.”
When booking a table at La Maison 1888:
- Please note that a smart casual dress code is part of the La Maison 1888 experience. Gentlemen are encouraged to wear smart resort attire (no shorts; jackets are not required). Ladies are requested to wear dresses or smart skirts or trousers.
- For groups of six or more, a deposit may be requested after booking. The Restaurant Host will explain the policies when confirming your reservation.
- For same-day reservations, you can contact the restaurant directly at +84 236 393 8888 (extension 6321)
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Written by
Mayukh Majumdar
Deputy Editor
Mayukh Majumdar lives life in Bollywood dialogues and has previously worked with media channels like Filmfare, Rolling Stone India, Man's World India and Mirror Now. He aspires to travel like Freya Stark and retire in New Orleans one day.
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