The popularity of Indian cuisine has witnessed a significant surge in Hong Kong with more elevated places such as Chaat, New Punjab Club and Rajasthan Rifles. Bengal Brothers, however, has chosen to keep it cheap and cheerful for their neighbourhood eateries.
A Review of Bengal Brothers
Bengal Brothers was born in the midst of the pandemic when two strangers from Delhi met on the streets of Hong Kong and commiserated on how much they missed the street food of their homeland.
Co-founders Tanvir Bhasin and Vidur Yadav – the latter previously with New Punjab Club and Rajasthan Rifles – put their heads together and came up with a simple concept of bringing quick grab-and-go meals of kathi rolls, rice/paratha bowls and other street snacks – and it has worked out well for them.
During the pandemic days with the government flip-flopping daily on dine-in regulations, Bengal Brothers offered a convenient option for people in Wan Chai where they opened their first outlet. They soon followed with outposts in Kennedy Town and Basehall in Jardine House.
And, just this month, the “Brothers” carved out a dine-in area at the original Wan Chai shop with 25 seats, including seven at the bar. The a la carte menu has been expanded to include more large plate items for dine-in clientele.
We headed down to check out the new premises and were pleasantly surprised to find there was more space than we had expected. Our group of seven managed to fit into the long table albeit a little snugly. While we waited for the last few stragglers, there were plenty of choices from the restaurant’s boozy cocktail list.
We matched our cocktails with a snack of pataka peanuts ($48) – spicy “firecracker” peanuts with chopped onions, tomatoes, green chilli and lemon. The description sounds a little more daunting than reality; while offering a nice kick, the spice level was not prohibitive.
The prince’s papri chaat ($88), a much loved staple of chaatwalas, marked the start of our meal. Although teeming with flavours from the chutneys and promegranate, I found the dish too drenched in yoghurt for my taste – it was hard to enjoy the crunch of the crackers.
The toddy shop style beef fry ($138) and the parsi keema pav ($148) were substantial for “small plates” but worth every bite. The beef was tender and juicy with mouthwatering aromas wafting from the crispy coconut and curry leaf.
I’ve always been a fan of lamb keema curry, so the parsi keema pav was the piece de resistance for me. While I’ve often had it with basmati rice, I loved this version with hot buttered buns. The curry packed a spicy punch, perfect for me.
Those who might prefer a milder curry would not doubt enjoy the smoked butter chicken ($148), which was silky and creamy. The Malabar paratha ($28) was an excellent complement for soaking up the rich curry.
The raw mango sundal ($58) was a refreshing foil for the heavier courses. The salad of raw mangoes, cucumber, coconut and three beans tempered with curry leaves and mustard seeds, was simple but delicious.
The restaurant also offers a version of the dum biryani ($198) that will please both vegetarians and meat-lovers alike using jackfruit as a substitute for lamb. Some other Indian restaurants have started using the fruit as a meat substitute, in particular in minced form in samosas, but the Bengal Brothers’ version are huge chunky cubes that look and even taste like lamb.
No Indian meal is complete without some sweet desserts – in this case the fig kulfi ($88) and the kaapi (coffee) panna cotta ($68) and masala chai ($48).
Cuisine
Indian
We Recommend
Small Plates – Parsi keema pav ($148)
Main Course – Jackfruit dum biryani ($198)
Dessert – Fig kulfi ($88)
Drinks – Masala chai ($48)
The Vibe
It’s a cosy spot and probably not ideal for lingering meals, although there are two more comfortable four-person diner booths. Besides the bar seats, there are also high stools at the front of the restaurant more catered to snacks and drinks. There’s a cheerful vibe, thanks to a selection of lively pop hits from the 70s and 80s such as Earth, Wind and Fire’s September, The Buggles’ Don’t Go Breaking My Heart, and The Bangles’ Walk Like An Egyptian.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
$800 for dinner (excluding drinks)
Address:
Shop D G/F, Man Hee Mansion, 6 Johnston Road, Wan Chai.
WhatsApp: 9245 8774 (dinner reservations only)
Opening Hours:
Monday – Sunday: 11am – 10pm
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Written by
Winnie Chung is an experienced lifestyle journalist who has covered everything from showbiz and Hong Kong films, to food, and all things luxury. After being grounded by the pandemic, she found a renewed appreciation for Hong Kong's vibrant and diverse dining scene.
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