Review: Our honest thoughts on FUIYOH!, Uncle Roger’s restaurant in KL

Malaysian comedian Nigel Ng, also known as Uncle Roger, has opened his own restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. One of the first in line to check it out, here’s our review of the newly-opened FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger.

You don’t need us to remind you that where Asian food is concerned, a few hallmarks are key indicators of a sure-fire hit: plenty of MSG, an itemised menu for easy ordering, and a surly proprietor who isn’t afraid to speak their mind. And at first glance, Malaysian comedian Nigel Ng’s FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger restaurant checks all the key boxes.

It was only a matter of time before Ng would eventually debut a brick-and-mortar dining business of his own, after making a remarkable impact on the world of hospitality through his alter-ego, Uncle Roger. This is especially true given his deep passion for good Asian cooking and no-holds-barred critique concerning the Western sanitisation of Eastern recipes.

Review: FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger restaurant debuts in Pavilion KL

The demonising of Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) and a lack of wok hei (breath of the wok), has been known to come up from time to time as part of his running gags. So much so in fact, that they have become central themes that his own restaurant claims to staunchly adhere to. And rightfully so, too.

This isn’t his first foray into the F&B business, but it certainly is his biggest to date. Previously, Ng had already been known for collaborating with foodstuff brand MiLa for a line of pre-packaged ready-to-eat dumplings that were only available to North American consumers. Thankfully where sit-down meals are concerned, his home country of Malaysia gets priority.

Located on the 7th floor of Pavilion Elite, FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger can be tricky to locate if this is your first foray around the mall. But believe us when we say that you won’t miss it when you arrive on the 7th floor.

Practically screaming in Uncle Roger’s favourite shade of tangerine, the entire shopfront has been given a high-impact treatment with its intermingling of highly stylised comic elements with Asian influences. Think Creamsicle in an unapologetically fun way, as indicated by a giant illuminated ceiling motif adorned with a caricature of Uncle Roger boasting ‘The Best Fried Rice in Town!’.

Menu highlights from FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger restaurant

Onward with the menu offerings. Let it be known now that where prices are concerned, it certainly isn’t cheap but for Pavilion standards, it isn’t extortionate either. A basic serving of Uncle Roger’s Egg Fry Rice starts at RM16 (about HKD 29.65), while a dish of Egg Fry Noodles will set you back RM17 (about HKD 31.50).

If you’re looking for a more luxurious take, there’s always Uncle Roger’s Egg Fry Rice with Garlic Shrimp served with four pieces of relatively decent-sized prawns. The seafood is fresh and when prepared with fried garlic, brims with umami.

 

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A post shared by Nigel Ng (Uncle Roger) (@mrnigelng)

A Malaysian classic, Tomato Fried Rice, is also served here at RM18 (about HKD 33.35) in its most basic guise, and RM30 (about HKD 55.59) for a version with succulent smoked duck breast. The range-topping Kimchi Fried Rice with Pan Seared Salmon and Mentaiko sports bold flavours to the point of excess, especially with the mingling of salty and spice, so it may not be to everyone’s liking.

Each fried rice dish can be enjoyed with a selection of sauces, ranging from a rich Pineapple Mayo (RM3 or about HKD 5.55) to a tangy Kaffir Lime Thai Chili Sauce (RM3). But true Malaysians know to order a thing of Uncle Roger’s Secret Sambal (RM5 or about HKD 9.26), which is essentially sambal belacan. While fried rice dishes are deceptively simple, they are also shockingly easy to mess up, as the average Chinese diner will attest to readily.

Any dish prepared on the wok needs to come imbued with a distinctively charred fragrance in every bite, made possible only through exceedingly high temperatures. As for texture, the perfect fried rice should sport relatively dry grains that aren’t mucked by grease, which is difficult for novice cooks as cooking with a wok typically requires a heavier-handed drizzle of oil.

Uncle Roger’s attempt is for all intents and purposes, fine. Each spoonful is properly toasted with wok hei and isn’t lacking in flavour even when it cools to room temperature, but runs the risk of growing increasingly salty with every spoonful. The texture of rice could do with added refinement too, with some servings appearing lumpy.

Sides and desserts on offer to order

As for sides, plenty of deep-fryer staples are served from a coyly named YSoWeak Mala Popcorn Chicken (RM27 or about HKD 50.02), to the Mala Okra Fries (RM18 or about 33.35) that our table simply could not get enough of.

There are even stir-fried cabbage dishes priced at RM16 (about HKD 29.65), and Aunty Helen’s Chicken Gyoza at RM22 (about HKD 40.76). The pan-fried gyoza is great for a meal in itself if you’re feeling only peckish. For atas folks, the Wok Hei White Corn is a tasty reminder of Japanese inflexions at RM26 (about HKD 48.17) per order.

Old-school ice cream desserts will soothe your spice-lashed palate but can be a little steep at RM9.90 (about HKD 18.34) for a cone of Snow Cream.

In its entirety, the experience at FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger is akin to Chinese fast food with Malaysian suggestions. A genre of cuisine which longstanding fans of Uncle Roger will recognise as being of the same crop that he is so often critical of. We’d say one other uncle based in Subang has little to worry about, where competition is concerned.

FUIYOH! It’s Uncle Roger, 7th Floor (Lot 7.102, Pavilion KL, Pavilion Elite, Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur.