Woolmark, a marque regarded as the global authority on wool, recently celebrated its 60th anniversary, marking six decades of dedication to quality and innovation in the wool industry.
Since its inception in 1964, the company has certified over 5 billion products worldwide, helping consumers easily identify superior woollen garments to synthetic fibres harmful to health and the environment. Throughout the decades, Woolmark has presented countless iconic partnerships with some of the most renowned and forward-thinking brands in the world from luxury fashion houses such as Vivienne Westwood and Prada to sports giants like Manchester United and adidas, and contemporary labels such as Jacquemus.
“As we celebrate this milestone, we remain committed to the core values of the Woolmark brand – quality, innovation and respect for the environment which are very much aligned to the desires of contemporary consumers looking for a new idea of luxury which is both authentic and eco-conscious,” said John Roberts, Managing Director of The Woolmark Company.
Beyond its certification work, The Woolmark Company has consistently been involved in the development of new wool fabrics and applications including water-resistant fabrics, sneakers, and wool faux fur. Through programs such as the International Woolmark Prize, Woolmark Performance Challenge, and the Woolmark Learning Centre, the brand further nurtures emerging talents, ensuring a progressive future of the industry.
In this interview with Woolmark CEO John Roberts, we explore the recent initiatives undertaken by Woolmark, a leader in advocating for Australian Merino wool and promoting sustainable practices within the fashion industry. With a rich history dating back to 1964, Woolmark has continually evolved to meet the demands of a changing market. We delve into key initiatives from the brand including the prestigious International Woolmark Prize, which champions emerging design talent, and the newly launched Woolmark+ roadmap, aimed at enhancing sustainability across the wool supply chain. Join us as we uncover the exciting breakthroughs, brand partnerships, and the vision for the future of the wool industry.
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What initiatives are you most proud of that Woolmark has undertaken in the last few years?
The first initiative is the International Woolmark Prize, which was relaunched by Woolmark in 2012. It is an illustrious fashion award and talent development program that generates long-term demand for Australian Merino wool by building and strengthening the reputation of the fibre as the ultimate ingredient of sustainable luxury fashion.
The global program increases the lifetime loyalty to the fibre amongst the award’s designers and alumni. Since its relaunch, more than 400 fashion designers have been involved, with the program’s alumni building strong businesses and taking leading roles within the industry.
Furthermore, the phenomenal interest in these awards from fashion communities and media globally has helped put wool back on the agendas of a broader range of fashion designers, manufacturers, brands and retailers, and consequently into retail stores for consumers to purchase.
In China, the International Woolmark Prize has helped cultivate a group of design forces that cannot be ignored, such as Qiu Hao, Ban Xiaoxue, Vmajor, and Chen Xuzhi, Angel Chen, and assisted them to use Merino wool designs on an international stage and given them global exposure.
Another initiative, released earlier this month, is the Woolmark+ roadmap, a package of new and existing initiatives aimed at uniting stakeholders across the wool industry – from Australian woolgrowers to international brands and retailers – to accelerate environmental sustainability. Woolmark+ aims to accelerate low-impact production, promote circularity and enhance animal wellbeing and woolgrower livelihoods. The roadmap sets out 13 practical initiatives intended to empower nature regeneration, reduce carbon emissions and optimise productivity. This approach not only supports woolgrowers in meeting their business objectives but also aligns with the increasing commitment from brands to mitigate Scope 3 emissions and bolster supply chain sustainability.
Woolmark is building on wool’s premium reputation and enabling global brands to better understand, value and support woolgrowers’ nature positive practices. By connecting sustainability goals along the supply chain and providing scalable opportunities, we are seeking to drive forward a thriving, responsible and nature positive wool industry.
The Woolmark+ roadmap aims to move the market’s conversation beyond the current focus on carbon and net zero targets towards nature positive. It is designed to position wool as not simply a fibre ‘from’ nature, but as a fibre ‘for’ nature, driving industry-wide opportunities and positive environmental outcomes for future generations.
Looking back, what are some of the most exciting breakthroughs Woolmark has achieved in recent years?
Since 1964 when the Woolmark logo was launched, more than six billion wool and wool care products have been certified for quality through the Woolmark Certification Program. Our unwavering commitment to quality has earned us the trust of millions worldwide. There are now more than 600 Woolmark licensees across the world, with 166 licensee partners in China.
During its history, Woolmark has forged iconic partnerships with some of the world’s most renowned brands. From international icons like Benetton and Prada, plus sporting giants like Manchester United and Andy Murray, the Woolmark logo has graced products across the fashion and textile spectrum.
Woolmark has also pushed the boundaries of innovation with wool. Examples, amongst many, include reinventing the suit with BOSS, using wool for the summer season with JACQUEMUS, showcasing the performance properties of the fibre with adidas at the Boston Marathon, and creating a water and wind-resistant fabric with Nanshan. The company has also found new categories for wool, such as footwear with Levi’s and swimwear with arena.
Additionally, the company’s unwavering commitment to nurturing young talent is evident through its numerous support programs such as the International Woolmark Prize, Woolmark Performance Challenge, and the Woolmark Learning Centre. These initiatives not only advance wool technology but also inspire the next generation of designers and industry leaders.
The wool industry operates in a dynamic and competitive global market. We focus on taking advantages of opportunities that include the market trend towards sustainable fibres, the growing interest in the provenance of products, the increasing use of Merino wool as a high-performance fibre, and new product innovations.
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Who are some brand partners that you’ve personally enjoyed working with?
One of the most recent, rewarding collaborations that Woolmark has worked on is with Chinese brand ICICLE which has unveiled a traceable Merino wool collection for Autumn/Winter 2024. ICICLE is firmly established as one of China’s leading eco-luxury brands. The brand has adopted ‘Made in Earth’ as its brand philosophy and uses only high-quality natural fabrics from which it crafts elegant and contemporary garments for men and women.
During the past decade, Woolmark has built a strong relationship with the brand, which is a Woolmark licensee, and the release in July of the brand’s inaugural traceable wool collection is a natural extension of this long-term collaboration.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 collection includes two core traceable ranges: the ‘Superfine Merino Wool Collection’ made from 13.75 micron wool and the ‘Dew Wool Collection’ using 17.5 micron wool. Both collections embody a commitment to traceability with each garment featuring a QR code that, when scanned, provides details for customers of the origin of the wool in Australia and the supply chain it travelled. Customers can explore the wool-growing farms, the wool-processing plants and the design concepts behind the product.
Partnerships such as this are important because they not only promote the benefits of Merino wool, but also showcase the eco-credentials of the fibre. With this new traceable wool collection, ICICLE features the actual Australian farms from which the wool in the collection is sourced. It provides a very strong marketing message. ICICLE is able showcase the farms’ strong commitment to quality, responsible wool production and environmental sustainability to its discerning consumers in China.
Another particularly proud partner that Woolmark works with is Benetton because it is one of the best-known fashion companies in the world, with stores in the most important global markets.
For example, in October last year, the brand launched a massive 1.52 million items of Woolmark-certified knitwear in more than 1,500 Benetton stores across the world as part of its Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, plus a further 180,000 Woolmark-certified accessories. The knitwear in the collection benefits from the natural attributes of extra fine Merino wool – including softness and comfort, and its colour fastness which ensures the bright colours that are an iconic aesthetic of the Benetton brand.
Marking the launch of the collection, Benetton introduced a campaign that celebrates both the quality of its Merino wool apparel and the historic 50th anniversary of it becoming a Woolmark licensee. Since 1973, Benetton has been certified to attach the famous Woolmark logo on its wool garments as an independent guarantee of quality. The campaign was a natural collaboration between the two brands that is based on a fibre that embodies quality, durability and care for the planet and its inhabitants.
We consider it an important part of Merino wool’s ongoing legacy to renew partnerships with iconic brands like Benetton. It remains a key priority for us to connect high-quality Australian Merino wool with beloved brands that span generations.
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What can we look forward to for this year’s Woolmark Prize?
Seven of the world’s most promising design talents will soon be announced as having secured their place as finalists in the 2025 International Woolmark Prize. Selected from hundreds of applicants, these designers will compete to shape the future of fashion through innovation and sustainability.
These finalists will represent a new era for the International Woolmark Prize. We’re evolving the program to focus even more on nurturing talent and driving the industry towards a nature-positive future. The seven designers will be key players in this transformation, and we’re excited to see how their collections unfold.
Notable updates to the program include an extension of the award to a two-year program, providing designers with more time focus on innovation – encouraging a test, trial, learn, and improve design philosophy. Also, the judging criteria will have an enhanced focus on sustainability and innovation. The International Woolmark Prize winner will receive an increased prize fund of AU$300,000 providing them with the financial support needed to bring their ideas to life.
For the first time, the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation has been expanded to be an industry award, which will be presented to any brand within the fashion industry that has pushed the boundaries of Merino wool innovation.
What are some unique properties of Merino wool?
Not all wool is the same. Australia produces primarily Merino wool, a natural fibre from Merino sheep that is renowned for being very fine and very soft. It is a unique fibre that has become loved by fashion and apparel designers across the world for its quality and versatility. It is suitable for applications from premium fashion to high-performance activewear.
Australia dominates the global production of Merino wool, and there has been a shift in Australia towards producing even finer Merino wool. The Merino fibres’ extreme fineness enables them to bend far more than traditional, broader wool fibres, making Merino wool feel soft and luxuriously gentle next to your skin.
Merino wool also boasts a superior range of natural qualities that extend far beyond its softness next to the skin. It benefits from natural breathability, keeps you warm in winter yet cool in summer, drapes beautifully and resists creasing, shrugs off stains and keeps its colour when washed, and benefits from natural anti-odour and anti-static properties.
As the market moves towards sustainability and circularity, this is a great opportunity for wool because it is a natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre that fits perfectly into a circular model of textile production that minimises waste and pollution. It is the perfect choice for those seeking clothing that has a minimal impact on the environment.
Every year, sheep produce a new fleece, making wool a completely renewable fibre source; wool is grown in the simple mix of sunshine, water, grass and fresh air. Wool is made of a 100% natural biodegradable protein; when a wool product reaches its end-of-life and is disposed of, the wool fibre readily decomposes in soil, slowly releasing valuable nutrients and carbon back into the earth.
How often clothes are worn is the most influential factor in determining environmental impacts from clothing – and wool garments are on average kept in use for longer periods of time than garments made from other fibre types. In addition, research shows that consumers wash wool clothing less frequently than other fibre types, saving water, energy and detergent associated with laundering. Furthermore, wool is also the most recyclable fibre on the planet.
What are some common unsustainable practices or shortcuts taken in the wool industry?
Wool is a natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre that is well placed to take advantage of the growing shift towards planet-friendly products. However, to optimise the eco-credentials of Australian wool and ensure that it is acknowledged as a sustainable fibre by all, Woolmark is devoting resources to remedy any environmental hotspots in the wool supply chain.
The sheep farm production of greenhouse gases (GHGs), primarily methane belched by sheep, is an important area in which the Australian sheep and wool industry is seeking to reduce its environmental impact. Woolmark research has identified methane-mitigating feed supplements for grazing sheep as having the greatest potential to significantly reduce the carbon footprint of wool within the next 15 years. It is a priority area for investment for the Australian sheep and wool industry. We invest in sound, scientific solutions to help secure wool’s market position as a natural, circular and regenerative solution to the many impacts of fast fashion.
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What’s a lesser-known yet important fact that the masses don’t know about wool?
Wool is not only suitable for autumn/winter and cooler conditions, it is also suitable for spring/summer and warmer conditions. It is a truly trans-seasonal fibre, Leading designers, manufacturers and retailers across the world have introduced Merino wool into their spring/summer collections, with a variety of lightweight fabric pieces and superfine knits.
This is because wool fabrics are breathable; they can absorb large quantities of moisture vapour and then transfer it through evaporation into the air, keeping the skin fresher and drier for a longer time. Wool also provides a personal ‘air-conditioning’ system to maintain temperature regulation through its natural crimp, which creates a lot of very small insulating air pockets. The fibre’s complex chemical structure also helps to control any unpleasant odour molecules by locking them away and releasing upon washing, leaving the wearer’s skin drier and fresher.
Today, Merino wool achieves incredibly high standards of fineness and softness, making it one of the most comfortable and high-performance fibres for all seasons.
Looking into the future, what changes still need to be made in the industry and what steps is Woolmark taking?
Focusing on consumer demand, the industry needs to improve the transparency and sustainability of the supply chain to gain market share and sustained competitive edge.
My vision for the wool industry is to position wool as a global leader, set the standard for transparent supply chains, and deepen people’s connection to this extraordinary fibre. I envision a future where the entire wool supply chain – from farm to finished product and beyond – promotes traceability and authenticity through strong collaboration. Woolmark hopes to lead the industry towards a bright future for those who cultivate, make and wear wool, while maintaining the highest quality standards.
Images courtesy of The Woolmark Company
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Aaron Chow
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Aaron is an editor currently based in Hong Kong focused on music, fashion, F&B, tech, art, and culture.
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