Munich-based Hemmerle is a fourth-generation, family-run jeweller with a focus on craftsmanship and unique design. Hemmerle pieces are characterised by unorthodox combinations of fine jewels and traditional materials such as wood, copper and iron. As the brand only produces 200 pieces per year, Hemmerle jewellery is revered not only for its artistry, but also for its one-of-a-kind status.
Hemmerle’s rich heritage dates back to when it was first established in 1893. Brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle took charge of a goldsmiths’ business, crafting medals and orders for esteemed clients including the Bavarian Royal family.
After Stefan Hemmerle took hold of the business in 1970, the label has since adopted a newer approach to fine jewellery. Aesthetics became more avant-garde, with a heightened focus on modernity. Pieces were crafted with rich cultural references to art, architecture and artisanship, breaking away from the past to turn the jewel into art itself.
Since 1904, its flagship boutique has remained at the same position on Maximilianstrasse, Munich’s stylish shopping boulevard. From making medals for royalty to crafting contemporary works of art, the brand evolved through four generations of ownership to become what it is today.
Throughout the years, Hemmerle has stayed true to its philosophy of creating timeless yet distinctive pieces through a combination of sculptural techniques and functional jewellery design. No individual stone is favoured over the others – instead, the jewels themselves drive their own narratives, as Hemmerle finds a way to create something exquisite with each and every one.
Lifestyle Asia held an exclusive interview with Christian Hemmerle, who currently runs the family business with his wife Yasmin, along with Vincent Guy Raffin, who holds the title as Director of Asia. Read on for a deeper understanding of the intricate, beautiful story behind each of Hemmerle’s creations and their impact on the Hong Kong market.
Christian Hemmerle
Growing up, did you know you would be following in the footsteps of the generations before you?
I officially joined the company in 2006. I considered other careers for a while but ultimately I grew up around jewellery and it has always been such a big and integral part of my life. From an early age, my father used to take me with him on trips around the world hunting for stones and materials. Even back then I admired his dedication and how he thrived creatively and the way that he worked. Jewellery is where my passion and heart are; it runs through my blood.
Was it stressed by your father that you would be carrying the Hemmerle legacy?
I admire my parents for not putting pressure on me for my creative journey, since I started at Hemmerle alongside my wife Yasmin. What he thought was very important is to draw one’s own conclusions as to the career path that inspires them. True creativity and excellence require such self-determination, where even though there is a family that endows from one generation to the next the knowledge and love for what we do, it is pivotal for each generation to be aware of its own trajectory and impact on this journey. This is only feasible if one takes the decision independently to keep Hemmerle alive. I feel each generation is a purveyor of what we do, infusing our world with a distinctive sense of individuality whilst also being reverent of the past.
In your words, what sets Henmerle’s designs apart from other jewellery artisans?
We are innovators who are prepared to take risks, and that keeps us at the vanguard of contemporary design whilst remaining dedicated to craftsmanship and exceptional quality. We blend the vocabulary of art and sculpture with the functional demands of jewellery design in contemporary society. We strike a balance between using traditional techniques passed down throughout the Hemmerle generations and new processes. Some of our traditional methods of working are incredibly labour and time intensive, such as an old Austrian technique we revived of knitting hand-drilled cut stones in the round over a silk mesh; but so too are some of our new practices, like working with aluminium to create certain colours and textures. We believe preserving traditional skills among craftsmen while developing new ones is important.
Materials are mostly our starting point and often we acquire them without a design in mind. Our creativity is driven by materials and we start with a particular stone or object and design around it. The sophistication of colour is integral to our aesthetic and sometimes classical materials are not enough for us to bring out all the different hues of a gemstone and utilise its full natural potential. For instance, we recently paired an unusual paler shade of aquamarine with celadon-coloured pebbles, hand carved from stones found in Indonesia and Andalusia. We don’t use unconventional materials just because they are different – it truly goes back to the fact that we want to give each and every gemstone the perfect home.
Is there one piece that you’ve created that is your favourite?
I always joke with this answer by stating that if I had more than one child I would not have favourites. Equally with all our jewels I don’t have favourites. I remember every piece we make. We live with them in the atelier for months and even years, so they almost become a part of us as we see the piece through from beginning to end. Each piece is so unique it would be an injustice to select one over another. Each has its own character that enthuses us from the use of materials, and their unique combinations that spark new dialogues, to technical research projects that can take over 500 hours to resolve, each is so intrinsic to our work that we see a little bit of “a favourite” in each and every one of them.
As you and your family travel a lot, what’s one of the countries that’s inspired you the most, and which country’s jewellery has impressed you the most?
One of the most valuable pieces of advice my father gave to myself and my wife Yasmin is to keep our eyes open for inspiration at every moment of the day. From our routine walk to the boutique every morning and the trees we pass along the way, to the architecture and art we engage with during our travels, each and every moment can be the igniting force for creativity. We recently travelled to Japan and the focus on slow-making there and the concentration of detailed processes and craftsmanship were truly inspirational. Similarly, during our Hong Kong visit in April, we visited the Botanical Gardens where we were so captivated by the rare species and specimens there that we immediately realised what a treasure trove of influence such a combination of textures and colours are in our creative journey.
We study, research and sample a new material for as long as necessary to achieve a desired texture, aiming for the highest level of creative output and innovation. We believe inspiration can reside in everything: each element, shape, form or even thought. Reinterpreting them and pushing the boundaries can result in something new. When we work with new materials, a lot of things are trial and error because we can’t predict the outcome. Each piece is a new discovery for us and we don’t necessarily know if it’s going to work out or not. Although it’s always a risk, we never get bored of experimenting as there are no limits and no boundaries.
What precious material or stone do you enjoy the most?
Our main principle is that each creation centres around the stone and that acts as the guiding force for the selection of materials we will select to enhance and complement it. We aim to always evoke a sort of storytelling through our jewellery creations that evoke a journey to the viewer as well as showcase our commitment to creativity and to pushing the boundaries of what is possible. Hence, we don’t have a specific material or stone we are singularly drawn to more than others. In several of our newest creations presented in Hong Kong and soon after at TEFAF New York in May, we were inspired by naturalistic motifs as well as representational elements of figuration. For example, in a pair of earrings, two sailing boats are seen in geometric shapes traced in aluminium and completed with white enamel, a material we have not used in jewellery for over 50 years besides in medals of honour. In another bracelet is a very rare 18th-century marquise cut diamond that is almost 40ct., which seems to float over the wrist whilst hugged by twisted iron threads that hold it in a diagonal position. Our goal with each presentation is to create a new perspective with which an audience can understand our work and creativity.
What is the next step for the Hemmerle brand in Hong Kong?
Our visibility is very much linked to the limited and slow rate of production of our creations. We put no time limit on the amount of time it takes to make a single creation, often devoting hundreds of hours to a single piece, and we produce approximately 200 pieces a year and a creation could take over 500 hours to complete. Accordingly, we only present our jewels selectively at art fairs and private viewings worldwide. Over the last few years, we have engaged with a growing audience both at fairs as well as collectors visiting us in Munich and we accordingly felt it was natural to honour those relationships by presenting directly in Hong Kong through private viewings. It was also paramount for us to present our latest special project Infused Jewels presented in 2022 firstly in Hong Kong, showcasing our commitment to nurturing long-lasting relationships. This project took four years in the making and we truly felt the inspiration and storytelling of this resonated with our times and offered the right context to showcase the artistry of Hemmerle to a new audience. In Autumn 2023 we hope to be returning to Hong Kong and Singapore with our private viewings.
Vincent Guy Raffin
Since you are the Director of Asia, what are your opinions on the Asian market and your thoughts on Hong Kong compared to other countries in Asia?
The luxury industry in Asia is unique, with consumers’ cultural values and preferences impacting their behaviour and expectations. Asia has a relatively young population compared to other markets, with millennials and GenZ driving much of the luxury consumption. This younger demographic has different preferences and values than older generations in other markets. We have directly experienced this at Hemmerle. Our collectors in Asia are young independent women who have a fresh approach to luxury. They are not afraid to try new things and they have a very educated perspective on what they select. Hong Kong has undergone significant transformation over the years, and its position as a leading destination in Asia for the luxury industry has also evolved. Hong Kong is still considered a prime destination for luxury brands due to its favourable business environment, financial stability, and robust legal system. Additionally, the city’s proximity and cultural affinity to China continue to make Hong Kong an important gateway for luxury brands to expand their reach throughout the region. The collectors we have met in Hong Kong are not just locals – many of them are cosmopolitan Chinese collectors from all over Asia, who feel comfortable and safe discovering luxury goods here.
How do you feel connected with the brand growing up and living in Hong Kong?
I believe that Hemmerle is a pioneer in its genre and brings a fresh new approach to jewellery in Hong Kong. It challenges people’s traditional perception of luxury and jewellery, and the women who wear Hemmerle are experiencing a new approach towards beauty and style. What our collectors here appreciate is our focus on self-empowerment, especially for women.
Hong Kong is a city that embraces modernity and always looks forward, and Hemmerle is part of this in terms of innovation and creativity in the luxury industry. As a city that has always loved jewellery, Hong Kong has evolved, and the jewellery collectors have matured. Today, Asian women who collect high jewellery are influencing the industry, and it is their support that gives room for design and craftsmanship to innovate and grow.
What are Hemmerle’s advantages in the Asian market?
We are evidencing a growing appreciation for understated forms of collecting and wearing one-of-a-kind jewellery which emphasises collectors’ renewed focus on quality, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. This can be also seen within a younger generation of jewellery collectors in Asia, who are seeking unique and understated luxury items that reflect their personal style and values. Hemmerle reflects these values through its designs, which are crafted using the highest quality materials and attention to detail.
In Hong Kong, this is particularly relevant, as the city has a multicultural society and is an international hub. In recent years we feel that there has been a revived interest in a deeper understanding of taste, with an emphasis on quality and craftsmanship. The city’s cultural offerings, through museums like M+ and the Palace Museum, have further contributed to this phenomenon. In this context, Hemmerle’s focus on exceptional quality has been warmly welcomed in Hong Kong and other Asian markets since the launch of our events in 2022.
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