In recent years, the allure of the synthetic, lab-grown diamond has gained remarkable momentum. This industry-altering transformation is underpinned by a complex combination of factors ranging from eco-friendliness to competitive pricing — inevitably sparking a growing interest in these man-made gems.
The origins of lab-grown diamonds can be traced back to the mid-20th century when scientists embarked on a journey to recreate the remarkable geological processes that yield their naturally occurring counterparts. This scientific endeavour was not merely fuelled by curiosity but also by the desire to provide a more sustainable, ethical alternative to traditional diamond mining. The result profoundly impacted the industry globally. These ethically produced gems not only offered consumers an option free from the dilemmas associated with natural diamond sourcing but also aligned with an increasing global focus on sustainability.
Today, the market value of lab-grown diamonds is only witnessing a meteoric rise. It amounted to more than USD 20 billion in 2021 and is anticipated to have a valuation of USD 52 billion by 2031. The rising interest in these variants is emblematic of a global trend that proves diamonds might be forever, but lab-grown gems are the future of the jewellery world.
Read on as we delve deeper into the intricacies of synthetic diamonds, exploring their origins, growth methods, pioneering brands, and real-world applications — offering a comprehensive guide to those intrigued by the extraordinary world of lab-grown diamonds.
The history of synthetic diamonds
The fascinating history of lab-grown diamonds dates back to the discovery in 1797 that diamonds are essentially pure carbon. Throughout the 19th century, scientists embarked on a quest to recreate the conditions required for diamond formation in a laboratory, with numerous attempts yielding limited success.
The breakthrough occurred in 1954 when General Electric (GE) successfully produced the first documented synthetic diamonds, marking a significant milestone. GE’s process, part of “Project Superpressure,” subjected small seed crystals to extreme conditions, including temperatures of 1,600º C and pressures of 100,000 atm. These conditions mimicked the geological processes that occur deep beneath the Earth’s surface.
However, the initial synthetic diamonds produced were primarily intended for industrial use due to their small size. GE later achieved gem-quality synthetic diamonds in 1971 by applying heat and pressure to a graphite seed.
These early gem-quality synthetics, while remarkable, were expensive to produce and often exhibited a yellow hue and numerous inclusions. Further research led to the production of colourless diamonds, setting the stage for lab-grown diamonds to compete with natural diamonds in terms of size, colour, and clarity.
Modern lab-grown diamonds are predominantly created through chemical vapour deposition (CVD), a method that allows for the precise control of diamond properties and cost-effective production. This advancement underscores the rich history and promising future of lab-grown diamonds, which have revolutionised the industry.
“The CVD process exactly replicates the diamond creation process that occurs below the earth, unlike its alternative i.e High-Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) process. As a result, HPHT diamonds contain metal impurities and are not 100% carbon-composed. CVD diamonds, on the other hand, are made of 100% carbon and receive a classification of Type IIA by the diamond grading labs which is an extreme rarity for their mined counterparts. A CVD diamond is superior quality to its mined counterpart,” says Pooja Sheth Madhavan, MD and Founder of Limelight Diamonds, one of India’s leading sustainable diamond luxury brands offering lab-grown CVD diamond-studded jewellery.
So, what are lab-grown diamonds?
Lab-created diamonds, known by various names such as lab-grown diamonds, synthetic diamonds, artificial diamonds, cultivated diamonds, or cultured diamonds, represent a fascinating intersection of science, technology, and nature’s brilliance. These man-made gems closely mimic the physical and chemical properties of their naturally occurring counterparts, forged through a controlled and precise process.
Origin and Composition
The fundamental disparity between lab-grown and natural diamonds lies in their origin. Natural diamonds take shape over eons beneath the Earth’s surface, subjected to immense pressure and heat, whereas lab-grown diamonds are meticulously nurtured in a controlled laboratory environment. Both variants are essentially composed of carbon atoms arranged in the same crystalline structure, thereby endowing lab-grown diamonds with the same chemical and optical characteristics found in natural diamonds.
Affordability and Accessibility
Lab-grown diamonds present a financially accessible option for those seeking the beauty of diamonds without breaking the bank. The lower price point of synthetic diamonds is attributed to the absence of resale value and the dwindling demand for these lab-grown gems. As a result, the cost of lab-created diamonds has continued to decrease, sometimes by as much as 30% within a single year.
In summary, the rise of lab-grown diamonds exemplifies a contemporary shift in the perception of what constitutes a valuable and ethical gemstone. These synthetic marvels offer a sustainable, traceable, and affordable alternative to mined diamonds, ushering in a new era of conscious and accessible luxury for consumers worldwide.
How do you select the right synthetic diamond?
When it comes to synthetic diamonds, the metrics are similar to those of the natural kind. “Lab-grown diamonds are exactly the same as mined diamonds and are 100% real. They are also found in different sizes and qualities and therefore have the same 4Cs to look for – the same cut, colour, clarity, and carat,” Mrs. Sheth Madhavan tells us.
All the 4Cs are extremely important but usually, the carat size of the diamond takes precedence. While it is the most appealing factor, one must also pay attention to the clarity, colour, and last the cut. Most mined diamonds come with nitrogen impurities that affect and reduce the shine and brightness of a diamond.
“Interestingly, all lab-grown diamonds produced through the CVD process are devoid of nitrogen impurities, and therefore 100% CVD diamonds are classified as Type IIa. Their shine, lustre, and brightness are far superior to the traditionally mined diamonds with nitrogen impurities,” she adds.
Sustainability and Ethical Considerations
One of the most compelling aspects of lab-grown diamonds is their reputation for being a sustainable and ethical choice. Traditional diamond mining has long faced scrutiny, notably due to concerns surrounding “blood diamonds” and their detrimental environmental impacts. In contrast, lab-grown diamonds are an ethical alternative, significantly reducing adverse consequences for the environment and society. These man-made gems offer a fully traceable supply chain, a feature often challenging to achieve with mined diamonds.
Moreover, the ethical appeal of lab-grown diamonds extends to their absence of any involvement in the trade of conflict diamonds, contributing to a cleaner and more responsible diamond industry. These gems stand in clear opposition to the opaque and often ethically questionable supply chains of mined diamonds. The ability to trace the entire journey of lab-grown diamonds from inception to market provides consumers with assurance about their ethical sourcing.
Additionally, the environmental footprint of synthetic diamond production is considerably smaller than that of traditional mining. The process of creating lab-grown diamonds typically requires fewer resources and generates minimal habitat disruption. This sustainability aspect resonates with the increasing global consciousness toward responsible and eco-friendly consumer choices.
Evidently, synthetic diamonds offer a compelling incentive for environmentally and ethically conscious consumers. These lab-grown gems embody a positive shift within the diamond industry, addressing concerns associated with mined diamonds and reflecting a more sustainable and responsible approach to luxury.
The biggest emerging diamond markets in the world
The world of diamonds is not just a glittering spectacle but a dynamic marketplace driven by the charm of these precious gems. Several key players dominate the global diamond market while emerging markets are increasingly making their presence felt.
The biggest diamond markets worldwide are traditionally the United States, India, and China. The United States holds a prominent position as the largest diamond market, driven by a robust demand for engagement rings and fine jewellery. India, known for its rich history in diamond cutting and trading, is another significant player, with Mumbai’s Diamond District serving as a global hub for diamond-related activities and businesses. Meanwhile, China’s expanding middle class has ignited a surge in diamond consumption, positioning it as a major player in the global market.
As someone with a stake in the industry, Mrs Sheth Madhavan regards the Indian retail space as one with enormous potential. “Remarkably, India is also the largest producer/grower of lab-grown diamonds through the CVD technology and contributes to nearly 25% of global lab-grown diamond (LGD) production. In addition to this, there is incremental demand for LGDs that is being observed from those who haven’t been able to afford diamonds yet aspire to buy them. India itself stands as a huge potential here as less than 5% of Indian women today opt for natural diamonds. The LGD market can cater to the remaining 95% too! So LGDs are an upgrade for everyone — those who could not afford them can now purchase diamonds and those who could, can now buy much bigger sized diamonds at the same price,” she says.
Additionally, emerging markets like the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Singapore have risen as new contenders. The UAE, particularly Dubai, has become a hub for the diamond trade, owing to its strategic location and investor-friendly policies. Singapore, with its strong financial infrastructure and growing affinity for luxury goods, is poised to become a significant player in the global diamond market.
Moreover, African nations, which have long been primary sources of natural diamonds, are increasingly becoming key players in the industry. Botswana, for instance, has established itself as a global diamond trading hub by adopting transparent and ethical practices.
Brands pioneering the concept of synthetic and lab-grown diamonds
The world of synthetic diamonds has transcended the confines of laboratories to make its way into various other industries, from technology to jewellery. Pioneering brands are leading the charge in harnessing the potential of these man-made gems, catalysing the growth of the industry.
In the technology sector, synthetic diamonds have made substantial inroads. Brands like Element Six, a subsidiary of De Beers Group, are creating synthetic diamond materials used in cutting-edge technologies, including quantum computing and high-performance electronics. Their exceptional thermal conductivity and durability make them invaluable components in the manufacture of electronic devices. Synthetic diamonds are also widely used in the realm of medicine, particularly for medical instruments including surgical blades and advanced cutting tools.
However, the biggest user of lab-grown diamonds in the world is the jewellery industry. Renowned brands like Ada Diamonds and Diamond Foundry are at the forefront of crafting exquisite lab-grown diamond jewellery. Their commitment to sustainability and ethical practices aligns with the increasing consumer demand for responsible luxury.
As the great-great-grandson of Louis-François Cartier — founder of the Cartier jewellery empire — Jean Dousset has also ventured into the market to uphold his family’s rich cultural legacy. With a passion for fine jewellery, he launched his eponymous brand in 2010, where he designs engagement rings, tennis bracelets, earrings, and more. Dousset first started out using natural diamonds mined from the earth, but made a big decision to switch entirely to synthetic diamonds in March 2023.
“It’s a risky move, but Dousset believes it’s the right moment for it. We’re in a pivotal moment, when the quality of lab-grown diamonds is now as good as natural ones, but at much lower prices,” he told Fast Company in an interview. “It’s liberating. My customers can now buy the diamond they really want, without compromise, and I can design whatever I want, without considering price.”
A 1 carat lab-grown solitaire engagement ring from Jean Dousset costs around USD 6,000, which is about half the price of a mined diamond of similar quality.
Dousset isn’t alone. There are now startups that specialise entirely in lab-made diamonds, including Vrai and Idyl; meanwhile, mass-market jeweller Pandora announced in 2022 it would move away from mined diamonds altogether. Even luxury brands are dipping their toes in this market. The luxury conglomerate LVMH recently invested in Lusix, an Israeli company that makes lab-grown diamonds; and both Breitling and TAG Heuer have unveiled watches encrusted with lab-grown diamonds.
As the industry continues to evolve, synthetic diamonds offer a sustainable, ethical, and versatile alternative to their natural counterparts, expanding their presence in the real world and promising a bright future in numerous sectors.
Challenging perceptions
Although the market is growing worldwide, consumer perception holds the key to its sustained growth. “Whilst awareness of lab-grown diamonds is increasing, we spend a lot of time ensuring that consumers are factually made aware of the entire diamond technology and process. This is when misconceptions of lab-grown diamonds being fake or artificial are erased from consumers’ mindsets,” Limelight Diamonds’ founder Mrs Sheth Madhavan tells us.
Moreover, consumers are also searching for validation in terms of its resale opportunities. “With increasing mined diamond and gold pricing, all consumers are looking for suitable alternatives – and lab-grown diamonds perfectly fit in that bracket. Retailers have begun keeping lab-grown diamonds under our Limelight Brand to offer consumers this differentiated product category. Moreover, people believe that lab-grown diamonds have no resale value. This misrepresentation has also been cleared with brands like ours offering buyback and exchange opportunities,” she added.
However, despite the relief to consumers, especially in terms of alleviated pricing, some brands are facing the brunt of the diamond revolution. WD Lab Grown Diamonds, founded in 2008, was a frontrunner in the industry, totalling a whopping USD 33M in revenue last year (2022). Once the second-largest US producer of man-made diamonds, the company filed for bankruptcy, becoming the sector’s first big casualty. The Washington-based company said it had total liabilities of USD 44 million with assets totalling USD 3 million and between 100 and 199 creditors. Clearly, there’s still more work to be done in convincing consumers to fully move away from natural diamonds.
Shop these brands specialising in lab-grown diamonds
If you’re keen on adding synthetic, lab-grown diamonds to your treasure trove, there are myriad options to explore. Recent years have seen several brands popping up on the scene, each with their own exquisite take on these sustainable sparklers.
Grown Brilliance
For premium synthetic diamonds, choose Grown Brilliance, which exclusively deals in lab-grown gems. Explore by shape, carat, clarity, or cut. Whether solo stones or custom engagement rings, Grown Brilliance offers ready-to-ship pieces, from wedding bands to everyday items like stud earrings and bracelets. Ethical practices underpin their quality assurance, from a controlled environment with strict labour laws to a lifetime manufacturing warranty. Certification by IGI or GIA accompanies lab-grown diamonds via the Design Your Ring program, while other jewellery with a centre stone weighing half a carat or more comes with certification cards.
Limelight Diamonds
Established in 2019, Limelight Lab Grown Diamonds Ltd. leads India’s sustainable diamond luxury market with its exquisite lab-grown CVD diamond-studded jewellery. Based in Mumbai, Limelight has expanded across India, collaborating with 65+ partners in cities like Hyderabad, Bangalore, Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi, Surat, and Mumbai. Supported by the world’s largest lab-grown diamond production unit, producing over 5 million carats annually, Limelight offers a diverse jewellery range. Recently, Limelight Diamonds earned distinction as India’s first exclusive CVD diamond jewellery brand, receiving an ESG+ certification with a Butterfly Mark for exceptional sustainability standards.
Blue Nile
Blue Nile, a prominent online retailer established in 1999, is synonymous with lab-grown diamonds and exquisite fine jewellery. Renowned for its customer-first model, Blue Nile prioritises transparent education and pricing. Offering both ready-to-ship pieces and customisable creations, they’ve maintained a stellar reputation for providing informative insights and high-quality deals. Committed to ethical practices, Blue Nile collaborates with Kimberley Process-compliant suppliers for their natural diamonds. To ensure lab diamonds meet rigorous standards, they employ GIA’s independent experts for grading—an uncommon practice in the lab-grown diamond industry. Every purchase comes with a detailed grading sheet, reflecting their dedication to quality assurance.
Dorsey
Dorsey, a Los Angeles-based independent fashion jewellery brand founded by Meg Strachan in 2020, has swiftly become a sought-after name in accessible heirloom-inspired pieces. Focusing on lab-grown stones, particularly white sapphires, each piece reflects a timeless design inspired by Strachan’s grandmother. These lab-engineered gemstones mirror the properties of mined stones, radiating brilliance at an affordable price.
Characterised by craftsmanship for generations, Dorsey boasts an array of “It girl” pieces. With a growing celebrity fanbase, including Hailey and Justin Bieber, Bella Hadid, Taylor Swift, Emily Ratajkowski, and Lily James, Dorsey offers modern, layered necklaces, contemporary gold chain links, and eye-catching event-worthy pieces.
Vrai
Vrai, operating through the Diamond Foundry, exclusively features lab-grown diamonds in their fine jewellery and engagement rings. Situated in the Pacific Northwest, near the Columbia River, Vrai maintains a zero-emissions status — a rarity among lab-diamond companies. Their direct-to-consumer model ensures competitive prices on high-quality lab diamonds, with precise cutting and crafting standards. Sustainability advocate Leonardo DiCaprio is an investor. They offer a full warranty and a certificate guaranteeing the grades of each lab-created diamond.
Jean Dousset
Having designed engagement rings for celebrities such as Paris Hilton, Eva Longoria, Shaun Ross and Amy Adams, Jean Dousset is a household name among Tinseltown’s A-listers. The great-great-grandson of Cartier founder Louis-François Cartier made headlines in March this year when he announced his plans to switch to using only lab-grown diamonds in his designs. It was a risk that paid off — his eponymous brand has been so successful that in September, the jeweller opened his first flagship boutique on La Cienega Boulevard in West Hollywood. Jean Dousset offers an extensive range of jewels spanning necklaces, bracelets, bridal jewellery, engagement rings and more. Customers can also opt for bespoke diamond ring designs if they desire. For those seeking to splurge, there’s even a High Jewelry range featuring more luxurious materials and complex designs. The Oval Cut Tennis Necklace, for example, is lavishly bedecked with 54 carats of oval cut lab diamonds set in 18k white gold.
The brand prides itself on selecting only the “top 1% of diamonds available in the market”, and its sparklers are all colourless or nearly colourless, with a D to H colour range.
(Main and Featured Images: Jean Dousset)
This story first appeared here.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
– Are lab-grown diamonds real diamonds?
Yes, lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds. Both lab-grown and natural diamonds are composed of carbon atoms arranged in the same crystalline structure, and hence share the same chemical and optical characteristics. The difference between them lies in their origin. Natural diamonds are formed beneath the Earth’s surface, subjected to immense pressure and heat, while lab-grown diamonds are nurtured in a controlled laboratory environment.
– What are the disadvantages of lab-grown diamonds?
As lab-grown diamonds are man-made, they may lack the unique qualities that their natural counterparts possess as a result of being created under the earth’s surface. Critics also believe that lab-grown or synthetic diamonds do not increase in value over time.
– Are synthetic diamonds expensive?
Lab-grown diamonds are generally priced lower than natural diamonds of similar quality and carat. However, as these synthetic diamonds are still graded according to the four Cs of colour, carat, clarity and cut, a top-tier sparkler may still command a reasonably high price tag.
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As a pop-culture enthusiast with a penchant for fashion, Srijoni found herself graduating with a degree in History from Miranda House, DU and a Master’s degree in Journalism from the Indian Institute of Mass Communication, New Delhi. Apart from binging on the latest web series, trying DIY recipes from TikTok, and spending hours window shopping on the latest Instagram stores, she loves spending time with her family and curating vacation mood boards. Writing opinion pieces, and critiquing international fashion trends are a part of her forte. Srijoni was previously employed at iDiva as their ‘Chief Fashion Writer’ for 5 years.
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