In the paradisiacal world of royal weddings, the recent union of Brunei’s Prince Abdul Mateen and his bride, Anisha Isa Kalebic, was 2024’s first global talking point. With its opulent traditions and staggering wealth, Brunei provided the perfect backdrop for a celebration that brought the world’s royal families under one roof. While the bride and groom were undoubtedly the focal points of this momentous occasion, their guests were also a dazzling sight to behold in their designer ensembles and haute joaillerie. In this article, we take a look at some jewellery brands that are particularly loved and frequently worn by royals.
Anisha’s bridal ensemble, a vision in white, was elevated by the sparkle of statement diamond earrings and a rivière diamond necklace. She didn’t just slip into your regular accessories; her diamond-encrusted bouquet, a part of the House of Bolkiah’s cherished collection, represented a legacy embraced by brides since the 1990s.
Stealing the spotlight, however, was the pièce de résistance – the diamond tiara. A bespoke creation by Singapore jeweller Flower Diamond, valued at a jaw-dropping GBP 10 million (SGD 17 million), this tiara graced Princess Azemah, Prince Mateen’s sister, for her nuptials in 2023. Crafted over eight months, it combined 838 diamonds, weighing in at 132 carats, all set in lustrous white gold. The design, featuring ocean waves and a crescent, added a touch of Islamic symbolism to its breathtaking beauty.
The post-ceremony festivities saw Anisha don a dazzling Zuhair Murad gown, paired with Queen Saleha’s tiara — a timeless piece worn at various royal weddings, including Princess Fadzilah’s in 2022. Beyond the glamour, these choices provide a peek into the fascinating world of jewellery brands loved by royals, each piece carrying a rich history and cultural significance. Join us as we unravel the stories behind these exquisite adornments that find a cherished place in the history and collections of royalty worldwide.
Jewellery brands loved by the royals
1. Cartier
A timeless favourite among European royalty, Cartier’s influence is etched in history. Princess Grace of Monaco wore a stunning Cartier engagement ring with a massive 10.48-carat emerald-cut stone, presented to her by Prince Rainier III of Monaco. On the night of her civil ceremony, she wore another Cartier piece, a diamond festoon necklace featuring 64 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds. The necklace is still worn today by the Monegasque royal family, including Grace’s granddaughter Charlotte Casiraghi, who wore the heirloom piece on her wedding day in 2019.
For Queen Elizabeth II, Cartier’s Halo Scroll tiara was the central accessory for her wedding day in 1947. The diadem was made in 1936 when George VI commissioned the brand to design the tiara for his to-be wife. The tiara was made from platinum, and featured 739 brilliant-cut diamonds, along with 149 baguette-cut diamonds. Decades later, the French brand continues to hold sway, with sightings of its pieces on the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, including this famous Halo tiara.
Cartier’s influence over royals worldwide is especially pertinent with its ties to the Thai dynasty. In 1908, the association between French jewellery and the royal court commenced when Cartier was granted the royal warrant of appointment by the House of Chakri during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). Additionally, King Chulalongkorn also visited the Maison’s flagship boutique located at 13 rue de la Paix in Paris. One of the noteworthy pieces from this association takes the form of a Cartier necklace gifted to Queen Sri Bajrindra (Saovabha Phongsri) by King Chulalongkorn during his royal visit to Europe.
2. Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels, the esteemed French jewellery house, boasts a rich history of association with royal families worldwide. Apart from Queen Grace Kelly of Monaco and Queen Elizabeth II who have loved the jewellery brand, Van Cleef & Arpels has left an indelible mark on Southeast Asian monarchies. One of whom was the Maharani of Baroda, India, who in the 1950s commissioned distinctive pieces from the brand for her private collection, most notably a necklace adorned with over 220 carats of emeralds.
For the coronation of Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran in 1967, the Maison created her crown, necklace, and earrings, as well as the jewellery worn by members of the royal family. Even the famous Royal Thai Tiara was crafted by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1960. It screams highborn with its white and yellow diamonds arranged in a traditional Thai style. Notably worn by the Thai Queen Consort for almost 70 years, this versatile masterpiece allows the removal of its yellow diamond and floral motif, transforming into a bandeau, necklace, or bracelet, and inevitably showcasing its timelessness and adaptability.
Apart from Van Cleef & Arpels’ prominence in the collections of royal families globally, Queen Sofía of Spain was also spotted in a decadent ruby necklace, made by the brand for the wedding celebration of Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan in 2023. It was given as a wedding gift to her in 1962 by Stavros Niarchos, the famous Greek shipping magnate.
3. Boucheron
Boucheron, the venerable Parisian jewellery house, boasts a distinguished history of catering to royal patrons, adding an illustrious chapter to its storied history. Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon, emerged as a prominent royal client, adorning herself with Boucheron’s creations. Notably, she was captivated by the allure of the iconic “Flame” necklace, a signature Boucheron piece that became synonymous with her regal style, exemplifying the brand’s ability to capture the preferences of discerning royalty.
Beyond Princess Margaret, Boucheron has garnered admiration from a spectrum of royal figures across the globe. One of the most prominent jewellery pieces loved by the British Royals was the Greville Honeycomb Tiara. A favourite of Queen Elizabeth’s (later the Queen Mother), this tiara was commissioned by Lady Greville, a society hostess, from Boucheron in 1919, but Elizabeth had Cartier adjust the design to create even more height. Upon the Queen Mother’s death in 2002, the tiara was handed down to the then-future Queen Camilla, who holds onto it even today.
Other royal patrons of Boucheron include Maharajah Sir Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, Riza Shah Pahlevi, Queen Farida of Egypt, Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden, and Queen Rania of Jordan.
4. Fabergé
Fabergé, the legendary Russian jewellery house, earned prestigious patronage from several European royal families, most notably the Romanovs. Tsar Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra Feodorovna who were fervent patrons. Commissioning their renowned Imperial Easter Eggs, the brand, founded by Peter Carl Fabergé first attracted the attention of the family at the Pan-Russian Exhibition in Moscow in 1882. Through its rich legacy and continued royal affection, Fabergé became an iconic symbol of opulence and craftsmanship.
Additionally, Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom, a sister to Empress Alexandra, was enchanted by Fabergé’s creations, acquiring an array of exquisite pieces. The Danish royal family also embraced Fabergé, with King Christian IX and Queen Louise being notable patrons. Fabergé’s distinctive style and exceptional craftsmanship endeared it to these royal households, creating a lasting legacy that transcends generations and borders. Apart from their eggs, the brand’s other pieces like a blue enamel cigarette case featuring a snake swallowing its tail, a jewelled and guilloché enamel three-colour gold photograph frame, and a rare gold-mounted enamel, nephrite and rock crystal study of wild strawberries among several others, have found its place in kingly courts.
Closer to home in Thailand, Queen Sirikit adorned her wardrobe with the exquisite Diamond “Hongsa” Swan Brooches crafted by Fabergé. These brooches, adorned with briolette diamonds suspended from the swans’ beaks, became an iconic part of Queen Sirikit’s attire starting from the 1950s. Notably, these brooches were believed to have been worn by royal children during their Tonsure Ceremony, a series of ceremonies marking the transition to adulthood. However, these ceremonies were discontinued in 1932, adding a historical layer to the significance of the Diamond ‘Hongsa’ Swan Brooches in the Thai royal context.
5. Flower Diamond
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Crafted by Singapore luxury jeweller Flower Diamond, the magnificent tiara worn by Brunei’s Princess Anisha Rosnah was originally commissioned for her sister-in-law, Princess Azemah Ni’matul Bolkiah’s wedding in January 2023. Founded in 1996 by Belinda Chua, Flower Diamond is renowned for bespoke jewellery, blending classic elegance with contemporary flair. The custom tiara, adorned with over 132 carats of diamonds, took eight months to complete, reflecting Princess Azemah’s desire for a light and modern design. Adjusted for Princess Anisha Rosnah’s wedding, the dazzling tiara boasts 838 diamonds, including square, oval, and pear-shaped, creating a 132-carat masterpiece.
Flower Diamond’s creative director, Ng, emphasised the rarity of the creation in a media interview, adding, “It’s a once-in-a-lifetime, and we won’t be making crowns like these very often. There will not be a second piece so soon.”
The highlight for the Flower Diamond team was not just the creation of the tiara but the invitation to attend the royal wedding. “We’re very honoured to have been invited to the wedding – a lot of royalty and leaders from around the world were there. The way they planned the wedding – even the flower arrangements, which I’ve never seen anything like before – was so amazing,” Chua said.
6. Anna Hu
Established in 2008 in New York City, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie is the creative venture of Anna Hu, a multitalented artist with a unique background in gemology and music. After winning awards as a cellist, Anna transitioned to jewellery design following a shoulder injury. Educated at GIA, the Fashion Institute of Technology, Parsons School for Design, and Columbia University, she gained experience with renowned names like Christie’s, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston, before venturing solo.
Anna Hu’s exclusive Haute Joaillerie pieces, limited to 30 per year, have garnered international acclaim. Notably, her creations have found a royal patron in Queen Jetsun Pema of Bhutan. The Queen wore Anna Hu’s exquisite creations on various occasions, including her honeymoon and an official visit to Japan. The artist’s “Beloved Poppy Earrings,” inspired by Bhutan’s national flower, were crafted for the Queen and symbolise a wish for love and peace in her marriage. The earrings, made from 18K white gold, feature a ruby centre stone surrounded by sapphires, Paraiba tourmaline, and diamonds, adding a touch of regal elegance to the Queen’s ensembles.
7. Shaun Leane
A new entrant in the jewellery brands loved by the royals, British designer Shaun Leane has left an indelible mark on the industry, particularly for his collaboration with the late Alexander McQueen. At the age of 18, Leane’s genius came to the forefront as he crafted diamond tiaras for prestigious houses like Mappin & Webb, Garrard, and Asprey, garnering attention from clients, including the British royal family. Leane’s eponymous brand has received acclaim, even winning the prestigious UK Jewellery Designer of the Year award four times.
His masterful creations have adorned notable figures, including Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle, both Duchess of Cambridge and Sussex, respectively. The uniqueness of Leane’s designs was further spotlighted in 2019 when Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi chose him to design their engagement ring, breaking from the royal tradition of keeping such details private. Shaun Leane’s artistry continues to captivate, seamlessly blending tradition with contemporary elegance in each sculptural piece.
(Main Image credit: Zuhair Murad/Instagram; Featured Image credit: EPA Photos)
This story first appeared here.
Frequently Asked Questions:
What are the most famous royal jewels?
Some of the most famous royal jewels belong to the British royal family. These would include the Cartier Halo Scroll tiara worn by the Duchess of Cambridge on her wedding day. Another important piece in their collection would be the Queen Mary Diamond Bandeau tiara, worn by the Duchess of Sussex on her wedding day and made by Garrard. The Greville tiara made by Boucheron is also another equally eclectic piece.
What is the royals’ most expensive jewellery?
The costliest royal jewel is Kate Middleton’s Cartier Nizam of Hyderabad necklace. Crafted with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds, 13 emerald-cut diamonds, and one pear-shaped diamond in the centre, this neckpiece is estimated to cost USD 80 million.
Who is the jeweller to the Queen?
Mark Appleby is the current jeweller to the Queen, who was appointed in 2017. The crown jeweller is responsible for the maintenance of the jewels of the United Kingdom and is appointed by the British monarch
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As a pop-culture enthusiast with a penchant for fashion, Srijoni found herself graduating with a degree in History from Miranda House, DU and a Master’s degree in Journalism from the Indian Institute of Mass Communication, New Delhi. Apart from binging on the latest web series, trying DIY recipes from TikTok, and spending hours window shopping on the latest Instagram stores, she loves spending time with her family and curating vacation mood boards. Writing opinion pieces, and critiquing international fashion trends are a part of her forte. Srijoni was previously employed at iDiva as their ‘Chief Fashion Writer’ for 5 years.
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