Here were our favourite novelties from Watches and Wonders 2024

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 has just concluded, and with this year’s watch-filled show came a new milestone for the event. This year’s attendance reflected the continued rise in the popularity of watches and watchmaking with a 14% increase in visitors (49,000) compared to 2023. 5,700 and 1,500 were made up of retailers and journalists, respectively.

In other numbers, retailer appointments rose to 10,000 (up 25% from 2023), with 19,000 ticket sales coming from those under 25 years old. The average age of attendees was also recorded at 35.

There were some impressive novelties from the 54 watchmaking brands exhibiting. On top of several new releases from heavyweights like Rolex, and Richemont’s Cartier, other brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, IWC,  Parmigiani Fleurier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as independents, Laurent Ferrier, Czapek & Cie., and H. Moser & Cie. all delivered creative and exciting works.

Below are some of our favourite releases:

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe continued its annual release of multiple updates. Covering watches from the World Time, Grand Complications, Nautilus, and Aquanaut, with additional updates for the Golden Ellipse and Twenty-4. The colour Blue-Gray is one of the standout themes from the list of releases. While the World Time was a limited edition from Patek Philippe’s grand exhibition “Watch Art” from Tokyo last year, it is now a regular fixture in its lineup.

Fans are most interested in the creation of the Nautilus and Aquanaut in more precious metal variants. The 5980/60G flyback chronograph in white gold now comes with an opaline blue-gray dial with a matching blue-gray denim-patterned calfskin strap and an additional blue-gray composite material strap with fabric pattern. The entire list of releases can be found here.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

This is essentially two of my favourite H. Moser & Cie watches combined — the Streamliner and the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. I like how this watch is relatively tonal but plays with light and has tremendous depth when you look into it. This is all made possible due to the use of an anthracite PVD finishing on the skeletonised inner workings (it has a little bit of the Undefeated collab DNA in there). Giving this watch more pop when you get lost in its intricacies are the various accents of gold and motion from the one-minute flying tourbillon. While the “Green Dragon” will forever be my Streamliner of choice, when it comes to this new release, I don’t even consider them in the same league due to the technical makeover.

CHANEL J12 Automaton Calibre 6

CHANEL delivered some impressive pieces from its Haute Horlogerie 2024 collection. Clearly stepping out of the fashion watch category for some time now, this year saw colourful pieces like the Pink Edition, the precious Time of The Lion, and the technical Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition, but we’re going with the J12 AUTOMATON CALIBRE 6 from the Couture O’Clock collection. This builds on the flagship J12 collection but enhances the watch with a story about “Coco” with a dazzling baguette diamond bezel,  and the House’s first Automaton movement — Caliber 6. This is such a fun piece as there are quite a few automatons that depict birds and even erotic scenes, but how many show Gabrielle Chanel working away with her scissors on a bust form? I love that all these little details reference the House’s history hidden in the dial. Learn more here

Czapek & Cie. Promenade Goutte d’Eau

Czapek & Cie won me over a few years back with the Antarctique with Fratello, and so they’ve been one of those names that I pay close attention to each year. This year, they’ve moved away from the integrated bracelets and have delivered a hypnotising watch. As part of the new Promenade collection, we were given a taste… or rather sip of one of the first stunning dials — the Goutte d’Eau (drops of water). Made with Donzé Cadrans, the grand feu enamel dial depicts the rippling effect of a drop in a body of water where it starts from the seconds hand and spreads over the sapphire blue canvas.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Is it just me, or has everyone at Watches and Wonders 2024 moved to leather straps this year? Either way, I am not mad, and this is a pretty cool switch as we move to dressier complications. IWC ups the stakes of a perpetual calendar with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (secular perpetual calendar). Not only is this watch built on the solid base of the Portugieser, a platform that is not talked about enough, but this thing is said to be accurate up until the year 3999. Its double moon phase is also said to only deviate by one day after only 45 million years. This is one of the few watches that make me contemplate my existence. Learn more here.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold

This year, A. Lange & Söhne has released a new take on the DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON, a watch first introduced in 2016. Featuring A. Lange & Söhne’s signature craftsmanship, this watch joins three classic complications with supplementary functions — the DATOGRAPH’s flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a one-minute tourbillon. One of my favourite aspects about this watch is the lume in combination with the semi-transparent dial. When charged to glow, this watch looks completely different in low light.

Laurent Ferrier

I love that Laurent Ferrier can keep the DNA of its models yet continue to add complications. This year at Watches and Wonders 2024, LF packed inside the Classic’s 40mm case with an Annual Calendar with the watchmaker’s first moon phase. This watch is one of those watches where you just need the one. In true Laurent Ferrier detail, we have elongated Roman numerals at 3, 9, and 12, and depth in its day-month aperture window. One of the most impressive features is the mood phase. They’ve given this extra care with Aventurine glass from Murano artisans. Each disc is hand-engraved, filled with Super-LumiNova, and fired at high temperatures.

Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase

Raymond Weil continues a winning formula with the Millesime collection. When I first saw the 2023 GPHG winner, I thought it ticked all the boxes (there’s a lot of value here). A very fitting design, especially as everyone moves towards dressier watches, the new Millesime ups the horological value now with a moon phase. I wish this watch had been around when I first started collecting watches. Neo-vintage, 39.5mm, sector dial, automatic movement, function at the 6 o’clock position, and most importantly, price! Learn more here.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor expanded its smaller 39mm case to now have a GMT function.  This release is great because it’s not only easy on the eyes with its black and burgundy anodised aluminium bezel insert, but adds a few more easy-to-wear details to it. It has some vintage elements via the absence of crown guards, it is COSC certified, waterproof up to 200m, has a 65-hour power reserve, anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gauss, and now has this comfortable rubber strap with a T-fit clasp. It is a watch you buy and wear and offers tons of practicality. Again, with value like this, I can see a lot of people wanting this.

Grand Seiko Kodo Daybreak

This is on the list because it is Seiko, well Grand Seiko to be exact. It is on here because it carries that attitude that so many Grand Seiko fans have come to love, and like a lot of the names on this list, they did it because they could. The Kodo doesn’t resemble anything that GS has on the market, but it was made just to remind us all that, just because they don’t make watches constant-force tourbillons, doesn’t mean they can’t. This watch is also the first watch with a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism on a single axis. It being inspired by samurai armour is just a plus. Learn more here.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Parmigiani Fleurier is re-introducing the Toric into the catalogue after a few years of hiatus with the Petite Seconde 40mm and Chronograph Rattrapante 42mm. The new Torics take a minimalist approach, forgoing Arabic numerals for subtle indices. The Petite Secondes are available in 18-carat gold or platinum cases paired with a golden or green dial respectively and exhibition caseback. The Chronograph Rattrapante, featuring gold movements, brings the split-second function on a double-column wheel, coming together to create a simple, sophisticated chronograph.

A new variation of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is joining the collection, this time without a date window and highlighted by a “Golden Siena” dial, striking a harmony between form and function to new aesthetic heights. The new all-platinum version of the Tonda PF Skeleton creates a striking contrast with the ALD Milano blue surfaces, enhancing readability and visual appeal. For more details on Parmigiani Fleurier’s releases at Watches and Wonders, read here.

TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer sets itself as the master of precision once again with the new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 41mm square watch fuses titanium and sapphire to create a light and sophisticated timepiece, available in red and blue.

The Carrera collection will be getting three exciting updates. The new Carrera Chronograph 39mm honours and refines the 7753 SN “Panda” chronograph with ultra-legibility featuring bi-directional winding, a shield-shaped rotor, and a 80-hour power reserve. The 18K 5N rose gold case on the latest Carerra Chronograph Skipper 39mm appeals to collectors while retaining functionality as a sailing watch with a Heuer 02 movement made for regatta timing. The Carrera Date is the epitome of feminine sophistication featuring precious materials such as 18K 5N rose gold, Mother-of-Pearl, and diamonds in a 36mm steel case powered by the latest Caliber 7 automatic movement. More details on TAG Heuer’s Watches and Wonders releases can be found here.

Piaget

Piaget is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year, and to mark the momentous occasion, the brand is pushing the boundaries of watchmaking once again with an update to its ultra-thin Altiplano Ultimate Concept. At only 2mm, the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon introduces a flying tourbillon, placed at 10 o’clock, while maintaining its status as the world’s thinnest watch. To achieve this feat, the tourbillon must be held in place by its perimeter, transforming the entire watch into the tourbillon. Learn more about the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

For 2024, “the watchmaker of watchmakers” celebrates the magic of mechanical watchmaking. Channeling founder Antoine LeCoultre’s obsession with precision that drew him into the watchmaking business, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to refine its Duometre models. This Watches and Wonders 2024 sees three new Duometre models –  – Quantieme Lunaire, Heliotourbillon Perpetual, and Chronograph Moon in Pink Gold and Platinum – as well as a new interpretation of Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar extends the power reserve to 70 hours, the Duometre Chronograph Moon features a new case and dials, and the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire arrives as the first Duometre model in steel. More details can be found here.

Contributing Editors: Johanna Muliani, Aaron Chow